The Glossy Podcast

Jaksot

• 
  Inside Uniqlo's US expansion strategy with head of marketing Nico Cessot 11.09.2026 29min

  Uniqlo has taken the U.S. by storm. The Japanese purveyor of affordable but high-quality basics has become a household name, particularly on the populous East and West Coasts of the country. But in the last year, Uniqlo has ratcheted up its expansion in the U.S. It has opened dozens of new stores across the U.S., with its 87th store opening in Washington, D.C. at the end of last month. Nico Cessot, head of marketing in North America for Uniqlo, joined the Glossy Podcast to talk about some of the expansion strategies Uniqlo has adopted to grow its American audience. According to Cessot, despite operating in the U.S. since 2005, Uniqlo still has plenty of room to grow its customer base and build awareness. "Our biggest priority is to continue to drive our brand awareness," he said. "Ultimately, we're still new in this market. This year is our 20th anniversary. So we're still pretty new. We want to continue to appeal to the U.S. customers. And how do we do this? Obviously, the store expansion is one thing, but the brand awareness and the discovery of who we are, what we stand for, what products we promote, I think that is also key for the success of Uniqlo moving forward." Ultimately, Uniqlo's goal is to reach approximately $19 billion in U.S. sales with nearly 200 stores in the next few years. Part of that strategy is to expand its store fleet beyond the coasts and into the middle of the country. "For many, many years, Uniqlo has been expanding in both the East Coast and West Coast," Cessot said. "New York is obviously a big market for us, but we also have California and L.A. locations. We recently opened in Texas — Dallas and Houston — Seattle in Washington state, Boston, D.C. and Chicago, where we recently also opened another local flagship store. But I think many, many customers still don't have acce
• 
  The 3 reasons Shein is trading at a quarter of its previous valuation 04.09.2026 27min

  After several years of ups and downs, the Chinese fast-fashion brand Shein finally went public this week. But the IPO wasn't what Shein hoped for. For one, it came four years late. The company first started attempting to go public in 2022, but a series of political hurdles in New York and then London led to long delays. Finally, Shein went public in Hong Kong this week at a valuation of around $25 billion, down from $100 billion in 2022. On this week's Glossy Podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and international reporter Zofia Zwieglisnka break down the three big reasons Shein has struggled to maintain the valuation it held in recent years.
• 
  What Chloe Malle's first September issue means for Vogue 28.08.2026 30min

  The Vogue September issue is the most important issue of the year for the storied fashion magazine. And this year's edition is the first one published under the new direction of Chloe Malle, head of editorial content, who took over for the legendary Anna Wintour last September. On the Glossy Podcast this week, hosts senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff take a look at Malle's first September issue and break down some of the ways that both Vogue and the larger fashion media industry have evolved. Chief among those changes is that print magazines are no longer the primary source of style information for the vast majority of fashion enthusiasts. The September issue of old was a bellwether for trends, informing the public about what was in style now and coming down the pipeline. But print can't compete with the speed of online publishing, where much of that timely trend analysis has moved, meaning that print has to be more timeless. The result is a sometimes contradictory product, full of ads for brands that are hot right now, but with editorial content that feels detached from the fashion business. "It's interesting that Chloe Malle is coming from a digital background," Manoff said. "I was a Vogue subscriber for years, and I used to read things that were buzzy and new. This issue had stories about improving your mood with Botox or one about the dangers of clenching your jaw. I was just like, 'What am I reading here?'" "A lot of it doesn't feel very timely," Parisi said. "Part of that is that people are more likely to buy print magazines today as a collector's item, as a coffee table book. That's why you see so many of those commemorative issues of random magazines in the grocery store aisle. They're not meant to give you timely information, which has all moved online." The hosts also discuss the cover story, featuring Kaia Gerber and Homer Gere, two children of famous parents, and the connection to Chloe Malle, herself the daughter of actress Candice Bergen and filmmaker Louis Malle. The issue ties the theme of children of famous parents to the many designers who have taken over at legacy fashion houses in the last year. And the September issue would be nothing without the clothes. This issue continues a trend in fashion editorial of single-brand looks. "We've definitely moved away from the stylist-driven looks, which haven't been the norm for a while," Manoff said. "I like when you see 'stylist-owned ball cap' or 'vintage jeans' in the credits. It's unfortunate that that's gone, because that is very inspiring to me. When you see a head-to-toe look that's all one brand, you're not getting ideas on how to style it. Nobody dresses that way."
• 
  Why Mike Ashley’s growing luxury empire has the fashion industry on edge 21.08.2026 30min

  On this week’s Glossy Podcast, international fashion reporter Zofia Zwieglinska joins senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi to explain who Mike Ashley is, why the Harvey Nichols deal matters and how Frasers is gaining influence across the fashion industry.
• 
  Who is buying the Palantir chore coat? 14.08.2026 35min

  It started with the Palantir chore coat. Then it was the Anthropic "thinking cap." Now, OpenAI has its own regular merch drops through its apparel arm, Supply Co. Over the last year, big tech and AI companies have started to get into the fashion game, releasing streetwear-inspired drops, hiring people into roles like "head of vibes" and opening pop-up shops to show off their merch. The reaction has been split. Many in the fashion community have lambasted these releases, calling them inauthentic and using fashion as a means of reputation laundering. Many of the companies involved, particularly Palantir, have been widely criticized for reasons including their environmental impact, unethical data acquisition models or contributions to mass surveillance. Highsnobiety style writer Chris Erik Thomas joined the Glossy Podcast this week to discuss why these companies are entering the fashion game and why the reaction from streetwear communities has been so negative.
• 
  Copenhagen Fashion Week built the Scandi boom. Can it still grow another Ganni? 07.08.2026 32min

  Copenhagen Fashion Week has spent the past two decades growing from a regional trade event into fashion’s unofficial fifth city. Along the way, it helped define the Scandi aesthetic, pioneered sustainability requirements that have influenced fashion weeks around the world and launched brands including Ganni, Cecilie Bahnsen and Saks Potts onto the global stage. But as many of its biggest success stories move to Paris, what comes next? This week, Glossy international fashion reporter Zofia Zwieglinska is joined by fashion editor and broadcaster Natalie Salmon to discuss Copenhagen’s rise, the legacy of the “Scandi girl,” the evolution of Ganni, why editors increasingly prioritize the week and what the next 20 years could look like.
• 
  The dos and don'ts of method dressing with Micaela Erlanger 31.07.2026 22min

  Method dressing is once again dominating the red carpet. At the Los Angeles premiere of “Spider-Man: Brand New Day” on July 27, Zendaya arrived in an Ashi Studio fall 2026 gown with a plunging neckline framed by sculptural elements resembling a spider’s appendages. Three days later, she and longtime stylist Law Roach continued the narrative at the film’s London premiere with a cream Tamara Ralph couture gown traced with metallic, web-like lines. The London look was finished with a diamond-encrusted gold spider brooch by couture jewelry designer Keren Wolf, placed at the base of Zendaya’s back. The piece was originally created to form part of a spiderweb headpiece designed by Shani Dvorkin with Wolf, before being reworked as an embellishment for the gown. Tom Holland joined in with an articulated spider brooch by British jeweler Pragnell, worn on the knot of his tie. The appearances were the latest demonstration of the red-carpet strategy Zendaya and Roach have helped turn into an entertainment-marketing event of its own, from “Dune” to “The Odyssey”. Instead of treating each premiere as an isolated fashion moment, they build a visual world across photocalls, press events and carpets, giving fans another reference to identify and circulate with every appearance. During the current “Spider-Man” tour, that has included a vintage Giorgio Armani dress covered in silver cobwebs at the film’s Rome premiere on June 23 and a $34.99 vintage Spider-Man T-shirt sourced on eBay for a Paris photocall two days later. The pair have simultaneously been promoting Christopher Nolan’s “The Odyssey,” shifting between literal spider references and contemporary interpretations of Greek dress. But as increasingly recognizable references become a fixture of movie promotion, celebrity stylist Micaela Erlanger believes the most successful looks should not resemble costumes. Erlanger, whose clients include Lupita Nyong’o and Meryl Streep, prefers the term “meta dressing”: using colors, silhouettes and more discreet cultural references to connect an actor’s wardrobe to a project without overwhelming the person wearing it. “For me, it hasn’t always felt like it has to be that literal,” Erlanger said on the Glossy Podcast this week. “I like the idea of referencing a character, or referencing a film, a moment, a dialogue or a period in time, without it having to feel gimmicky or obvious.” Erlanger used that approach while styling Nyong’o, who plays Helen of Troy, for “The Odyssey” press tour. At the film’s London premiere on July 6, Nyong’o wore a silver Christian Cowan gown with a relatively restrained silhouette from the front, but deep sculptural cutouts beneath the arms that revealed her figure from the side. Rather than reaching for an overtly Grecian chiffon dress, Erlanger wanted the look to communicate Helen’s legendary beauty more indirectly. “She’s playing Helen of Troy, the most beautiful woman in the world,” Erlanger said. “You don’t need a lot of clothing or a whole lot of look when it’s about who the woman wearing the dress is and how she stands on her own.” Erlanger had limited information when she began working on the wardrobe. Nolan is known for keeping his films private, while Nyong’o initially disclosed little beyond the identity of her character. Erlanger instead drew from Homer’s poem, Greek mythology and her own interpretation of Helen. For an earlier New York appearance, Nyong’o wore a custom Sally LaPointe look with ostrich feathers. The idea was developed by Erlanger and Nyong’o as a reference to the story that Helen was born after Zeus took the form of a swan. “If you know, you know,” Erlanger said. “Lovers of the book and Greek mythology might be able to pick up on that.” The outfit still worked independently for audiences unfamiliar with the reference, which is central to Erlanger’s distinction between meta dressing and simply recreating a film’s costume. She applied the same thinking while styling Streep during the press tour for “The Devil Wears Prada 2.” At an April 12 event in Shanghai, Streep wore a cobalt-blue Saint Laurent military-inspired coat dress with oversized sunglasses, subtly recalling both Miranda Priestly and the original film’s famous cerulean monologue. In the speech, Priestly describes cerulean military jackets supposedly shown by Yves Saint Laurent before the color filtered down through the fashion system. The collection described in the screenplay never actually existed, making Streep’s coat what Erlanger called “a reference within a reference.” “If you were paying attention, you would pick up on these kinds of things,” she said. Social media has made such details increasingly valuable. An obscure reference decoded by fans can become a viral post, generating attention for the actor, stylist, designer and film simultaneously. It has also brought stylists themselves out from behind the scenes. Erlanger said their work now extends far beyond choosing attractive clothes, encompassing public-image management, brand exposure and the strategic positioning of clients. “We are responsible for shaping the public image of some of the biggest names in entertainment,” she said. “There’s a whole business to all of it.”
• 
  The end of the shopping calendar 24.07.2026 42min

  The shopping calendar isn't what it used to be. Prime Day has become Prime Week, Black Friday has become Black Friday Month, back-to-school shopping now starts in June, and holiday shopping is starting in October. As brands and retailers compete for an edge during these lucrative periods, the traditional shopping calendar is getting elongated and spread out. According to Kelly Pedersen, global retail lead at the professional services firm PwC, these shifts are being driven by both businesses and consumers. On the Glossy Podcast this week, Pedersen shared that PwC's research on back-to-school shopping shows that the average family is spending around $920 during the back-to-school period. Those customers are continuing to spend around $630 a month on their kids throughout the school year. "It starts with the brands," he said. "The retailers always want to capture consumers during these moments, and they want to be first. It's not just about revenue during those windows, but [it's also about] customer acquisition, capturing those customers and using that momentum to carry spend on throughout the entire year." Pedersen said today's consumers are being trained to expect holiday sales and back-to-school sales earlier, meaning they're waiting to spend until those periods start. That further incentivizes brands to elongate the period as much as possible. The natural question becomes whether a longer shopping event leads to consumer fatigue and risks robbing those periods of their urgency. But Pedersen said he doesn't think that is the case. "Theoretically, it could actually increase overall spending because people get paid in cycles," he said. "They're going to spend a certain percentage of their paycheck on holiday shopping. But if you elongate that period, you have more opportunities to pick up on that cash flow from the consumer." Ultimately, Pedersen recommends that brands think about these shopping periods — like holiday, back-to-school and Mother's Day — as opportunities to capture a customer in the long term, not just as a one-off revenue driver. He also pointed to PwC data showing that almost 0% of surveyed customers said they planned to use AI to help them shop for holidays last year, but that number jumped to 73% this year. "Consumers are using technology to become smarter about how they shop with a retailer, and retailers really need to think about this new channel," Pedersen said. "And it's not a channel in the traditional sense, meaning they're not transacting via AI, but it's a discovery channel, and it's a price-checking channel."
• 
  Victoria's Secret Pink's Gen-Z-focused holiday strategy, with president Ali Dillon 17.07.2026 37min

  Pink wants to be the first stop on a Gen-Z shopper’s trip to the mall this holiday season. To get there, the Victoria’s Secret-owned brand is expanding beyond the pajamas, fleece and intimates it is best known for, using accessories, denim, beauty and collaborations to position itself as a broader lifestyle brand for 18- to 24-year-old women. The strategy follows a period of renewed momentum. Pink delivered low-double-digit growth in the first quarter of 2026, supported by its core apparel and intimates businesses, improved regular-price selling, and new customer acquisition among 18- to 24-year-olds. According to president Ali Dillon, the brand’s turnaround has been driven by a renewed focus on “clarity, customer and connection.” “Today, Pink is evolving into a digitally native, socially driven lifestyle brand with a bold, playful and irreverent point of view,” Dillon said on the podcast. “Our product, our voice, our marketing — they’re all uniquely Pink.” Dillon said Pink had previously lost sight of its core customer as the brand aged alongside its original shoppers. Now, it is specifically targeting 18- to 24-year-olds rather than broadly marketing to Gen Z, a generation that will continue to age out of that bracket. Recent efforts have included working with K-pop group Twice around the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show and Valentine’s Day, launching a festival campaign with “Love Island USA” star Gabby Mora, and opening a dedicated store in New York’s Soho neighborhood. According to Dillon, customers began lining up outside the Soho store at 1 a.m. on its opening day. The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show held last October was also an important catalyst. Dillon said some bras featured during the event sold out almost immediately, supported by TikTok videos showing customers running into stores to buy them. “That moment of true brand health, of this feeling like, ‘I have to go get it right now,’ is definitely something that we’ve been really proud of,” she said. Pink is now looking to carry that urgency into the holiday 2026 season. Rather than treating the season solely as a period for traditional gift exchanges, the brand is building around what Dillon described as “treat culture”: the tendency among younger shoppers to buy smaller gifts for themselves and their friends to mark everyday achievements. “She’s not necessarily waiting for major milestones to celebrate,” Dillon said. “She’s creating these real reasons to celebrate all the time.” The holiday assortment, spanning a range of price points, will include everything from accessories and beauty to fleece, sleepwear, bras and matching sets. Accessories are becoming particularly important as younger shoppers remain price-conscious, though Dillon said value is not simply a matter of offering cheaper products. “Value isn’t just about price. It’s about feeling like what you’re buying is worth it, too,” she said. One example is Pink’s Campus Tote, which generated approximately 115,000 backorders. Dillon said the bag initially took off organically after appearing in the background of social content, rather than through a major marketing campaign. Store employees soon began reporting that shoppers were repeatedly asking when it would be restocked. The response has encouraged Pink to further expand accessories and personalization. Dillon said the brand remains interested in charms and other customizable elements across categories including intimates, swimwear, fleece and beauty. “Our girl loves to personalize,” she said. “She loves to make something unique.” Sleepwear will remain central to Pink’s holiday business, but the brand is increasingly presenting it as part of an all-day wardrobe. Dillon pointed to shoppers wearing pajama-inspired clothing from bed to brunch or the beach, allowing Pink to merchandise sleepwear alongside bras and casual apparel. That cross-category approach was recently used for the Marshmallow bra, which the company launched last week alongside a modal sleepwear collection. Pink developed the bra after research found that 60% of women ages 18-24 wanted a more comfortable option. Denim and beauty are also areas of expansion. Pink has tested trend-driven jeans, shorts, skirts and jackets, and Dillon said the company has “a lot of exciting things in the hopper” for beauty. Collaborations will remain part of the strategy, but Dillon said they are intended to amplify Pink rather than define it. The brand’s first LoveShackFancy drop last November generated what she described as the strongest five minutes of sales in the history of Pink’s website, with shoppers gravitating toward established Pink products reworked through the collaboration. Pink is also trying to build a healthier business by relying less heavily on discounts. Dillon described the approach as prioritizing “emotion over promotion,” while acknowledging that the company will still need to deliver competitive value during Black Friday this season. By the end of the season, Pink will be looking at customer acquisition, regular-price demand, and whether holiday shoppers continue to engage with the brand into 2027. “We often say, ‘Meet me at Pink,’” Dillon said, talking about where teens meet up in the mall. “Where are you meeting when you’re starting your shopping trip? We want her to go there first.”
• 
  The new rules of denim (RERUN) 10.07.2026 40min

  On the Glossy Podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and international reporter Zofia Zwieglinska are joined by Glossy editor-in-chief Jill Manoff to discuss the new rules of the denim market. Denim is a perennially popular category, and there’s more diversity and competition in denim than ever. We talk about the trends that are dominant and the ways the denim customer is changing, plus we group together some of the current top brands to provide a better sense of how the sector is evolving.
• 
  Oner Active's Krissy Cela on leveraging ambassadors to surpass the $200 million mark 03.07.2026 27min

  Krissy Cela, the fitness influencer and founder of the activewear brand Oner Active, spent 10 years building up her expertise as a creator before finally launching her brand. That time spent researching, getting to know the community, and building an audience has paid off. Just six years of the brand's existence, it has already reached nearly $200 million in annual revenue. For this week's Glossy Podcast, Cela joined Glossy editor-in-chief Jill Manoff for a live recording from the stage of the Glossy E-Commerce Summit in Miami, where the discussion centered on how she's been able to scale up her brand so quickly. Part of that comes from her knowledge of the community. Oner Active's ambassadors program opens for applications once a year and routinely gets around over 30,000 applicants. “All of them are vetted, and then we send them a free set from the latest collection — no one else will have access to that collection," Cela said. "And in return, they’ll create content. I think we’ve created 16 million impressions across social when only gifting 100 sets,” she said, explaining the program’s high ROI. “The girl with the content that performs the best then becomes affiliated with the brand. [She can then
• 
  What defines 'American fashion' today? – with Articles of Interest host Avery Trufelman 26.06.2026 38min

  As we approach the 250th anniversary of the United States' founding, we're living in a fashion world that's more globalized than ever. K-pop stars mix with American celebrities and European designers to form a diverse and international fashion consensus. But there's still something ineffably unique about American fashion. From New England prep to country Western and urban hip-hop, there is no shortage of subcultures and aesthetics that originated in America and have become global phenomena. On the Glossy Podcast this week, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff speak with Avery Trufelman, the journalist and host of the fashion and social history podcast Articles of Interest, about what American fashion truly is. We also break down which designers and brands today best emblematize what American fashion means today. Trufelman said American fashion is defined by a chameleonic approach to style and reinvention. America has a long history of people reinventing themselves through fashion and aesthetics, from George W. Bush reinventing himself as a Texan rancher to Jay Gatsby adopting the fashions of New England to hide his background. "There's this refrain that America is constantly learning to live up to the ideals that it set out for itself," Trufelman said. "This was pushed by waves of activism over the years. Black jazz musicians started wearing New England prep clothes in the 20th century, and it spread this message that anyone can dress that way. It's fulfilling this idealistic, not-quite-yet-lived experience of an equal society." Trufelman said several major brands today are defining American fashion, from classics like Ralph Lauren to new designers like Emily Bode. But she specifically singled out Brooks Brothers as playing a pivotal role in defining what American fashion could be. "Brooks Brothers is the oldest surviving clothing brand in the United States and really exemplifies everything about this country, good and bad," Trufelman said. Brooks Brothers has clothed every American president except two -- too fancy for Carter, not fancy enough for Reagan -- and helped popularize the very concept of a recognizable, mass fashion brand. "America's gift to the world is brands," Trufelman said. "And Brooks Brothers was a big part of that. We invented mass-produced clothing, which is now such a big part of the fashion industry."
• 
  Is Saks safe again for brands? 19.06.2026 31min
• 
  Quince head of brand strategy Dakota Kate Isaacs on how the brand is capitalizing on its $10B valuation 12.06.2026 22min

  Fresh off a $10 billion valuation, the direct-from-manufacturer online retailer Quince is on a hot streak. It's been testing physical retail with pop-ups and expanding into new categories, from furniture to caviar. But while the company had no shortage of sales, what it was lacking was a coherent brand story. Dakota Kate Isaacs, formerly a senior director at The Ordinary, started at Quince in February as the company's first head of brand strategy and narrative. Her goal has been to help Quince build an emotional connection with its customers, for reasons beyond just the low prices that attract them in the first place. Isaacs spoke with senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi at the Glossy E-commerce Summit in Miami this month to discuss what strategies she's been adopting to build those relationships. "My goal is not to create a new story for the brand, but [instead] to articulate the story to everyone," she said. "The narrative around Quince often gets condensed just to price, but the price isn't the story. The price is the result of the system, and the system is the story." To that end, Isaacs has been pushing for more initiatives, including a recent furniture pop-up in Los Angeles. Isaacs said pop-ups allow new categories like fragrance and wellness to be introduced in a more comprehensive, aesthetically cohesive way, with accompanying imagery and branding. For example, another recent pop-up for its fine jewelry category was held in a coffee shop in Manhattan. "I'm working to tell the true story of the business," Isaacs said. "What makes this business unique is the technology and the system behind the business
• 
  Who will win the World Cup battle between Nike and Adidas? 05.06.2026 34min

  The World Cup is in the United States this year for the first time since the 1990s, which creates massive opportunities for many sportswear and apparel brands. Perhaps no brands are as heavily invested in the World Cup as Nike and Adidas. Together, they sponsor many of the teams and have rolled out several large-scale campaigns tied to the tournament. On the Glossy Podcast, international reporter Zofia Zwieglinska spoke with Daniel-Yaw Miller, award-winning writer and creator of the bi-weekly SportsVerse newsletter, about these two sportswear giants and their strategies for the World Cup. Miller said the fact that the World Cup is in North America this year has given many brands the license to step up their games. "We haven't seen a World Cup of this scale in many years," Miller said. "It's well-positioned for the biggest companies and brands in the world to make the most of it and justify the case for investing in it. Previous World Cups in Qatar and Russia had their own complications. It's been a while since it was in a location that was home to many huge companies." Already, Nike has rolled out collaborations with many celebrities and brands tied to the World Cup, including with Jacquemus, Palace and Drake. Miller said Nike, under the leadership of CEO Elliot Hill, has been working to regain ground in its soccer division. "In 2024, [Nike] came out with a strategy called Sports Offense, which was based around these five pillars, and one of them is football," Miller said. "We've seen that bear out with how the brand has invested marketing dollars in the lead-up to the World Cup." But Adidas has nostalgia on its side, Miller said, as it's the brand most heavily associated with soccer and dominated the sport for a long time before Nike got involved. The Adidas Samba has been around for decades and recently went through a resurgence just in time for the World Cup. "Adidas has so many legends like David Beckham, various Brazilian superstars from the ‘90s, Italian legends like Alessandro del Piero," Miller said. "And Adidas has done a good job of keeping them all in their universe and under endorsement contracts usually reserved for active athletes. But the people with the most spending power are people who grew up watching these players."
• 
  What are men wearing right now? 29.05.2026 46min

  Pitti Uomo, the largest menswear trade show in the world, is coming up this month. Brands from around the world will show off their newest collections of suits, shoes and elevated basics. But many of the most stylish men aren't wearing new clothes. Vintage and secondhand fashion is having an explosive moment, and menswear content creators are particularly in love with high-quality vintage goods from years past when clothes were made to last. Not only do menswear brands have to compete with each other, but they also have to compete with the decades' worth of vintage clothing still on the market. Why buy the latest from Corso Mille when there are mountains of vintage Ralph Lauren available on eBay? On the Glossy Podcast this week, we spoke with Albert Muzquiz, the menswear writer and content creator better known as @edgyalbert, about exactly this phenomenon. Muzquiz said menswear enthusiasts tend to obsess about quality, and while there are brands making good clothes now, they're often the exception rather than the norm. "There are the lowest common denominator brands that are pushing everyone further down," Muzquiz said. "And then there are these American companies controlled by private equity that have no soul or substance. And when you touch good fabric, it's like night and day. You can tell the difference. But this is why the JFK Jr. trend happened. There were eras where basically any clothes from the department store were that good."
• 
  Shein bought Everlane. What does it mean for sustainable fashion? 22.05.2026 32min

  Earlier this week, Glossy wrote about Everlane’s reported sale to Shein, a deal that will put one of the defining sustainability-adjacent DTC brands of the 2010s inside the world’s most scrutinized ultra-fast-fashion machine. The headline was a shock to many, as the two companies represent almost opposite ends of the modern fashion conversation. Everlane has built its identity around “radical transparency,” elevated basics and factory disclosure since its 2010 founding by Michael Preysman and Jesse Farmer. On the other hand, Shein, founded in 2008, has become known for rock-bottom prices, rapid production, and ongoing criticism from fair labor and sustainability advocates. It is also known for its $66 billion valuation in 2023, when it was reported that the company had started to chase an IPO. On this week’s Glossy Fashion Podcast, Jasmine Malik Chua, climate and labor editor at Sourcing Journal, joined the conversation to talk through what the deal says about brand values, investor pressure and the future of sustainability-led fashion. Chua has reported extensively on Shein and Temu, forced labor, textile waste, garment worker protections, sustainability regulation, and climate risk. Her first reaction to the Everlane news, she said, was visceral. “I think I just screamed inside for like two hours,” Chua said. The reported deal follows a difficult period for Everlane, which had been carrying significant debt and not been profitable for some time. But for Chua, the story points to a fundamental tension between slow-fashion values from brands like Everlane and the kind of fast-growth that venture-backed brands are expected to deliver. “Due diligence is a cost,” Chua said on the podcast. “Doing the right thing doesn’t come cheap.” As VCs demand more from the brands they invest in, consumers expect to pay less — in Everlane's case, that's because of competitors like Uniqlo and Quince, for example. Everlane was never purely a sustainability brand — Preysman often framed it around transparency, rather than sustainability. And the company built real credentials on both fronts, Chua said, with factory disclosure and a 52% reduction in absolute carbon emissions. The question now is whether those values will survive under Shein's ownership. Chua said Shein may be interested in Everlane because of its reputation, its supply chain and its position as “almost the antithesis” of what Shein represents. The numbers for Shein’s own impact are not pretty. According to Reuters, citing Shein’s own 2024 sustainability report, the company’s transport emissions rose 13.7% in 2024 to 8.52 million metric tons of CO2e, more than three times the transport emissions reported by Zara owner Inditex. According to NielsenIQ, Shein launched 315,000 new items in 2022, compared with 6,850 for Zara and 4,400 for H&M. And according to Italy’s competition authority, AGCM, Shein’s sustainability messaging has also faced regulatory challenge: In 2025, the watchdog fined the company €1 million ($1.17 million) for misleading and omissive environmental claims. Shein says it is investing in logistics changes, renewable electricity and supplier solar capacity, but those efforts sit against a model built on low prices, rapid product testing and constant newness. Everlane has disclosed supplier information, while Shein has faced criticism for not publicly listing even its first-tier suppliers. First-tier factories, Chua explained, are the cut-and-sew facilities that have direct relationships with brands, making disclosure there a baseline expectation. Shein has been trying to improve its image, including releasing sustainability reports, making sustainability executive hires and giving the Or Foundation three years of funding for its textile-waste work in Ghana, amounting to $15 million, announced in June 2022. Chua said Shein’s funding has been meaningful for the organization’s cleanup and research work, even as the company’s broader scale and rising emissions remain difficult to square with sustainability claims. But for Everlane, the risk is that the same brand equity Shein may be buying becomes harder to defend once the acquisition is complete. It would not be a stretch to say that the brand's ethos will disappear under its new ownership. “Is Everlane going to influence Shein to do more of what the sustainability movement wants it to do?” Chua said on the podcast. “Or is Shein going to work its own pressures on Everlane?”
• 
  The AP x Swatch collab is not a wristwatch. Is the hype over? 15.05.2026 28min

  This week, the hype around the Swatch x Audemars Piguet "Royal Pop" watch built to a fever pitch. In the lead-up to the big reveal, watch collectors were already planning when they would start to line up at Swatch stores to secure the highly anticipated product. But then the watch was fully revealed: not a wristwatch, but a pocket watch meant to be worn on a lanyard, clipped to a bag or snapped into a desk stand. The hype shifted. Earlier this week, before the reveal, Robertino Altieri, founder and CEO of the watch marketplace WatchGuys, told Glossy that he suspected the hype would be subdued if the Royal Pop wasn't a classic wristwatch. After the reveal, Altieri joined the Glossy Podcast to talk about how the watch community is receiving the Royal Pop and what the collaboration says about the state of the watch industry. As we've previously covered on Glossy, the Royal Pop seems to be following in the path of the mega-popular Swatch x Omega Moonswatch from 2022. Despite concerns that the Moonswatch would dilute the value of Omega, sales of Omega's flagship Speedmaster watch increased by 50% based on the popularity of the Moonswatch. So will watch buyers take to the unorthodox new model? While diehard watch collectors may be scratching their head at the funky novelty of the Royal Pop, AP seems to be targeting a more casual consumer, someone who potentially has never owned an Audemars Piguet watch before, in a bid to expand its consumer base.
• 
  'Fashion businesses want immediate contributions': An FIT professor's take on the 'challenging' fashion labor market 08.05.2026 39min

  The last year has seen the U.S. labor market enter a challenging position. Layoffs at major companies like Amazon, Microsoft and Verizon have put more people out of work while costs of living are rising. The fashion industry wasn't spared. Saks Global is laying off 16% of its workforce, and other major fashion brands, like H&M and Nike, have made staff cuts. For people just entering the fashion industry, it's a daunting proposition. On this week's Glossy Podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi spoke with Keith Fraley, a professor of fashion business management, about the challenges facing new graduates and others seeking entry-level roles in the fashion industry. One of the biggest changes Fraley has seen is that the training period for new employees is much shorter than it used to be. "The businesses are expecting immediate contribution from their new hires," Fraley said. "And before you can contribute, you need to show that you know what the job entails, that you understand how the business makes money, because they want to see people making an impact in their role relatively quickly after they're hired." Fraley has seen far more students who are interested in the creative side of the business, including design and product development, taking more business-oriented classes. That reflects a shift in the labor market, where more applicants are competing for fewer openings and need more ways to demonstrate their value and versatility. One of the most pressing concerns in fashion employment is AI. A recent Vogue Busines survey of 300 current and aspiring fashion workers found that only 32% of students feel positive about the role that AI will play in their careers. Most believe that AI will further reduce the number of available jobs. Fraley was more optimistic, while acknowledging the concern. "Repetitive tasks, basic analysis might be automated," Fraley said. "But that will just increase demand for strategic thinking and creative interpretation. I don't think AI will replace many fashion roles, but it will certainly reshape them."
• 
  Glossy goes to the movies: "The Devil Wears Prada 2" 01.05.2026 35min

  On the Glossy Podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week. This week, that news is "The Devil Wears Prada 2," the newly released film that brings back Meryl Streep as the imperious fashion magazine editor Miranda Priestly. The first movie shaped popular conceptions of the fashion and media industries for the last two decades, and the new film examines a vastly changed fashion landscape in which print magazines are no longer dominant. In this spoiler-filled episode, we talk about how the industry has changed in the 20 years since the original movie was released and examine what the movie says about the current state of fashion. The Devil Wears Prada 2, unlike the first movie, which was notably sparse on appearances from real-life fashion personalities, is absolutely stuffed with cameos of both people and brands. Donatella Versace, the Cuccinelli sisters and Law Roach all appear, along with product placement from Tiffany and Valentino, and Dior is centrally important to the plot. But do brands really benefit from their placement in the film? And will the movie's box-office success have a broader impact on the fashion industry as a whole? The episode answers these questions and more.