The SJX Podcast

Episode

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  Ep. 50 - Big Brands to Beat 13.08.2026 15mnt

  Episode 50 of the SJX Podcast rounds up recent reviews, including a review of a new book about Universal Genève chronographs, and the latest updates to long-running platforms from Breguet and Patek Philippe.The discussion also explores the intensifying competitive landscape in high-end watchmaking as big brands like Patek Philippe, Breguet, and A. Lange & Söhne close the gap with many artisanal independent brands in terms of finishing and execution. Show notes:00:30: Universal People Universal Dreams by Luca Mignini03:47: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral ref. 7255PT10:10: Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5227G Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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  Ep. 49 - Independent Watchmaking Retrospective 07.08.2026 19mnt

  Ahead of Geneva Watch Days, which will feature 71 (mostly independent) brands in 2026, episode 49 of the SJX Podcast looks back at how independent watchmaking became the phenomenon it is today. SJX and Brandon trace its evolution from 1970s pioneers like George Daniels and F.P. Journe through the arrival of Daniel Roth, Philippe Dufour, and Franck Muller. The conversation also examines the avant-garde boom of the 2000s, the renewed emphasis on traditional finishing, and the role of digital photography and social media in transforming what was once a solitary pursuit into a global collector community.Listeners can sign up for the SJX Newsletter by August 12, 2026 for a chance to win a Habring² Chrono-Felix Medicus.Show notes:00:23: Habring² Chrono-Felix Medicus giveaway02:25: Geneva Watch Days 2026 preview and origins04:00: The pioneers of independent watchmaking10:00: The 2000s wave and the influence of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity12:09: Survivorship bias, changing tastes, and returning makers14:03: Post-Covid independents, specialist suppliers, and social media18:43: Predictions for what comes next Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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  Ep. 48 - Horological Heatwave 03.08.2026 18mnt

  As Swiss watchmakers prepare for their summer holidays, episode 48 of the SJX Podcast rounds up some of the best summer-ready watches released in the first half of 2026, spanning nearly every price category.Show notes:00:40: Kollokium Projekt 2 Variant C01:34: Baltic Heures du Monde02:10: Seiko Prospex Marinemaster HBF00103:40: Seiko 5 Sports HUF Limited Edition04:25: Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee”05:56: TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer07:16: Hermès Cape Cod Titanium09:15: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver10:20: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time "Cardinal Points"12:15: Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller14:10: Greubel Forsey Balancier 315:48: Rolex gem-set Daytona quartet Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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  Ep. 47 - Second-Chance Watches 29.07.2026 22mnt

  The return of the Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar got us thinking about other technically interesting watches that showed promise but never truly found their footing.In episode 47 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss recent releases from Seiko, IWC, and Swatch before turning to candidates for a second chance, including the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement, the TAG Heuer Monaco V4, and the elusive Breguet Hommage à Nicolas G. Hayek 7887.Show notes:00:30: Seiko Star Time for Shohei Ohtani02:37: IWC ProSet Perpetual Calendar07:35: Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 196912:18: Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement14:10: TAG Heuer Monaco V416:15: TAG Heuer high-frequency chronographs18:15: Louis Vuitton Tambour Twin Chrono and Audemars Piguet Michael Schumacher Laptimer20:23: Breguet Hommage à Nicolas G. Hayek ref. 7887 Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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  Ep. 46 - A Rolling Rolex 24.07.2026 11mnt

  In episode 46 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon and SJX examine the Swiss watch industry's June export figures, which confirm the strength of the American market and reveal the impact of the Royal Pop.The episode also explores Rolex’s unexpected activity in clockmaking, beginning with the brand's patents for a traditional inclined-plane clock that was hiding in plain sight at Watches & Wonders. We also share impressions of the Rolex Submariner Desk Clock released late last year — a conservative-looking but impressively constructed object powered by an unusually sophisticated quartz movement.Show notes:00:35: Analysis of June data for Swiss watch exports05:20: Rolex inclined-plane clock09:30: Rolex Submariner Desk Clock Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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  Ep. 45 - Pop to Drop? 09.07.2026 16mnt

  The unprecedented collaboration between Swatch and Audemars Piguet that resulted in the Royal Pop dominated the product's first news cycle, but market enthusiasm seems to have cooled off, with anecdotal evidence supported by broader search trends.On Episode 45 of the SJX Podcast, we look back at the launch, and discuss what future collaborators might do differently to avoid the same fate.We also look at the opposite end of the market, which in some ways is only gaining momentum, with a number of multi-million-dollar results in the spring auctions.Show notes:00:30: Swatch x Audemars Piguet Royal Pop02:30: Google search volume05:25: F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Souscription result at Phillips10:10: F.P. Journe 'Swiss Fine Timing' edition results13:41: Christie's highlights, including Patek Philippe ref. 3448G 'Red Dot' and ref. 5959R Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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  Ep. 44 - Evolution, Not Revolution 07.07.2026 22mnt

  Episode 44 of the SJX Podcast covers new releases from Grand Seiko, Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin, and Breguet. The common thread that ties these releases together is that each is an incremental update to a previous model. Grand Seiko's updates to the Evolution 9 collection are perhaps most notable simply due to the brand's larger scale, and for what this refresh indicates about how the brand is listening to collector feedback. We also shares our condolences with the Stern family over the passing of Philippe Stern, and discuss his towering legacy.Show notes:00:30: Philippe Stern's legacy06:00: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 refresh (new bracelets and UFA movements)09:30: Greubel Forsey Balancier QM12:50: Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar15:00: Breguet Tourbillon 225th Anniversary16:00: Chanel Chessboard Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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  Ep. 43 - American Independents 03.07.2026 13mnt

  This weekend, the United States marks its 250th Independence Day — it's the perfect opportunity to reflect on recent American contributions to the field of horology.On episode 43 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss the latest entry in this field — the Liberty 250 from 1776 Atelier — and break down the claim that 90% of its components are manufactured in the US. The conversation also discusses RGM and J.N. Shapiro — brands that have contributed substantially to contemporary American watchmaking.Finally, to look into the future we go back to school by visiting the Watch Technology Institute in Seattle — the last remaining full-time public watchmaking programme in the US capable of granting a major certification. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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  Ep. 42 - Inside Roventa-Henex 01.06.2026 25mnt

  Jérôme Biard is good at keeping secrets. As chief executive of Roventa-Henex — a leading white label maker of Swiss watches — he needs to be. For episode 42 of the SJX Podcast, we visited Mr Biard at the company's secretive manufacture in the sleepy Swiss village of Tavannes.The discussion covers the emergence of the 'micro-brand' (including whether that term is still relevant), the factors facing the Swiss watch industry today, the role suppliers play in shaping trends, and what it takes to start a watch company. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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  Ep. 41 - A Diamond in the Rough? 17.05.2026 13mnt

  Tiffany & Co. is one of the only major jewellers without a significant watchmaking programme. Episode 41 of the SJX Podcast examines the brand's past, present, and future under the leadership of Nicolas Beau, who is credited with building Chanel's watch business into what it is today.When it comes to watches, Tiffany & Co. is potentially a diamond in the rough — it's a uniquely American luxury brand with enviable cultural recognition. The brand also has a global boutique network giving it immediate access to all major markets, which could accelerate its trajectory with the right product mix. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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  Ep. 40 - Rexhep Rexhepi's Vision 11.05.2026 22mnt

  For the 40th episode of the SJX Podcast, we sat down with Rexhep Rexhepi in Geneva to learn more about his latest watch — the RRCHF Chronograph Flyback. Rexhep explains why he wanted to make a chronograph, and how the self-imposed constraint of a symmetrical layout resulted in a more refined overall construction.He also discusses the RRCHF's in-house escapement, and the trade-offs that were considered in its development. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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  Ep. 39 - Geneva Auction Preview 05.05.2026 13mnt

  The spring auction seasons gets underway in Geneva in just a few days. On episode 39 of the SJX Podcast, we look at some of the top lots that caught our attention at Phillips, Christie's Sotheby's, and Antiquorum.Auction dates (in order):Phillips: May 9 & 10Antiquorum: May 9 & 10Sotheby's: May 10Christie's: May 11 & 12Show notes:1:00: Patek Philippe Worldtime ref. 25231:20: Akrivia AK-061:45: Charles Frodsham pocket watch for J.P. Morgan partner Thomas Lamont2:55: Victor Kullberg tourbillon pocket watch3:25: Paul Ditisheim tourbillon pocket watch4:45: Patek Philippe dual time pocket watch with Turkish dial5:53: Audemars Piguet single-button chronograph wristwatch7:15: School watch from Geneva Watchmaking School7:47: Patek Philippe ref. 425 for Asprey8:55: Audemars Piguet observatory dial9:05: Rolex Submariner white gold prototype10:20: Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700 diamond-set11:30: A. Lange & Söhne grand complication pocket watch Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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  Ep. 38 - Independent Highlights from Geneva 04.05.2026 17mnt

  During Watches & Wonders, all eyes are usually on the major brands exhibiting inside the cavernous Palexpo. Episode 38 of the SJX Podcast rounds up the highlights from the smaller fairs like Time to Watches, and the independents exhibiting on their own around town.Among the standouts were Mathieu Cleguer, who debuted a novel escapement of his own design, Dominique Renaud who launched a high-amplitude 1 Hz balance, and Franc Vila, who seems to be entering a new era of creativity.Show notes:1:12: Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Mystery2:45: Anton Suhanov Flamingo4:20: Dominique Renaud Pulse 607:20: Cleguer Horology Inspiration One9:15: Niton Prima12:00: Franc Vila FVF2 14:30: Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon15:00: Marco Lang Seven Spheres Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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  Ep. 37 - Watches & Wonders 2026 Recap 01.05.2026 30mnt

  Episode 37 of the SJX Podcast recaps the biggest releases from the brands officially exhibiting at Watches & Wonders 2026. Highlights from the independent brands exhibiting around town will be covered in our next episode.Show notes:0:55: Rolex Daytona Rolesium Enamel Dial ref. 1265023:15: Rolex Yacht-Master II5:00: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 'Jubilee' Dial8:30: Patek Philippe Celestial ref. 6105G12:00: Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5610P 50th Anniversary12:30: Patek Philippe Automaton ref. 524913:30: Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar "Lumen"14:50: Lange Saxonia Annual Calendar15:50: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin ref. 2500V16:50: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual-Time Cardinal Points19:11: Tudor Black Bay Ceramic19:40: Tudor Monarch21:00: TAG Heuer Evergraph25:00: Cartier Crash Platinum26:20: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver SLGB025 and SLGB02328:00: Ressence Type 1129:30: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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  Ep. 36 - Day 1 of Watches & Wonders: Rolex Marks Oyster Centennary 14.04.2026 8mnt

  Episode 36 of the SJX Podcast comes straight from Watches & Wonders 2026. As ever, all eyes are focused on Rolex during the first hour of the event. SJX and Brandon unpack the brand's new models, which feature new materials and a novel industrial approach to enamel dial production.We'll be back soon with more live coverage of the industry's biggest event. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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  Ep. 35 - A New Era for Independent Watchmaking 09.04.2026 20mnt

  It's been a promising year for independent watchmaking, and Watches & Wonders hasn't even taken place yet. On episode 35 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss Rexhep Rexhepi's first in-house chronograph bearing his own name. What Mr Rexhepi does, others often imitate, so it's worth thinking about how the launch of this traditional-yet-novel chronograph will shape the future of the category.The conversation also turns to Ressence, which has just unveiled its own in-house movement, and has done so at a fair price. Russian AHCI-member Anton Suhanov also joins the ranks of indies with their own calibres, installing a 15+ mm luminous balance wheel in his third wristwatch. And that's not the only Russian watch boasting unusual specs — Konstantin Chaykin revealed the series production version of his ThinKing, the thinnest watch ever at just 1.65 mm thick, complete with double 'mystery' displays.New names also made their debuts recently, including Stéphane Pierre and Mathieu Cleguer, who has come up with a novel double-wheel escapement of his own design. These makers are illustrative of a broader trend in independent watchmaking, namely the engineer-led brand. Show notes:00:20: Rexhep Rexhepi RRCHF06:45: Raymond Weil Millesime “The Fifty”07:20: Ressence Type 1110:00: Anton Suhanov Flamingo15:00: Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Mystery16:30: Cleguer Inspiration One18:00: Stéphane Pierre L’Impétrant Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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  Ep. 34 - Understanding Collector Psychology 03.04.2026 31mnt

  Why do watch debates get so heated, so fast — and why does no one ever change their mind? On episode 34 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon sits down with King Flum, collector and author of the ScrewDownCrown Substack, to dig into the psychology behind the arguments that define online watch communities.Drawing on research from psychologists including Jonathan Haidt and Dan Kahan, the conversation covers why our preferences form before we start thinking, why smarter collectors tend to construct more elaborate — not more objective — arguments, and why an attack on your watch can feel like an attack on you personally.Read more here: https://www.screwdowncrown.com/p/your-brain-is-a-defence-lawyer-watch-forum-psychology Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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  Ep. 33 - Affordable New Releases 19.03.2026 20mnt

  Seiko is on something of a resurgence, aiming to take back its reputation as a value leader after the emergence, over the past decade, of increasingly competitive micro-brands. On episode 33 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss the King Seiko Vanac, now available in titanium, and the Marinemaster, which has been transformed through a number of incremental upgrades. The discussion then turns to some other affordable new releases from Orient Star, Raketa, and Christopher Ward, which just launched an in-house 'flyer' GMT calibre with a five-day power reserve.Show notes:00:35: King Seiko Vanac Titanium3:30: Seiko Marinemaster8:00: Orient Star M4511:10: Raketa Baikonur12:20: Christopher Ward Sealander True GMT Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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  Ep. 32 - Watches & Wonders Wish List 18.03.2026 11mnt

  Watches & Wonders is less than a month away, so for episode 32 of the SJX Podcast we're talking about what we'd want to see from some of the major brands like Patek Philippe, Grand Seiko, and Tudor. It's always difficult to make predictions, and the best releases from every year are usually a surprise, but Andrew put together a few picks that we believe would be crowd-pleasers, were they to be made.SJX and Brandon also discuss the latest minute repeater from Girard-Perregaux, and SJX's own collaboration with Habring²: the Chrono-Felix Medicus chronograph.Show notes:1:00: Patek Philippe3:00: Grand Seiko4:20: Tudor7:30: Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Flying Bridges11:30: Habring² x SJX Chrono-Felix Medicus Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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  Ep. 31 - State of the Industry 2026 13.03.2026 21mnt

  Episode 31 of the SJX Podcast digs into two major industry reports — one from Vontobel on the primary market and one from EveryWatch on the secondary — and what they reveal about where value is concentrating in the watch industry. SJX and Brandon discuss the K-shaped nature of the market, the dominance of F.P. Journe among independents, and Cartier's remarkable ability to sell across every price tier. The discussion also touches on the role of emotion in driving purchase decisions, the financialisation of the hobby, and why market reports have limited utility for collectors.Show notes:00:30: K-shaped market dynamics — Vontobel and EveryWatch reports3:00: F.P. Journe dominance among independents4:00: Cartier's unique market position10:00: Emotion vs. financialisation14:00: Marteau & Co.16:00: Phillips Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.