The Testpiece Podcast

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  Board Talk #17 with Matthew Mendes — The World’s Strongest Fingers, The Death Of Spray Walls, and Climbing V11 In Under A Year 19.10.2026 1時間 12分

  Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Matt Mendes, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - Matt’s craziest feats of strength - The best MoonBoard set - The best standardized boards Join Patreon: HERE Follow us o...
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  #200 Gio Placci — How To Never Stop Improving, The Problem With Onsights, and Training With The World’s Strongest Climbers 12.10.2026 1時間 17分

  Giovanni Placci keeps getting better. Despite a relatively late start to his climbing career, he’s managed to flash 9a, compete in world cups, and become a regular training partner of Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert. Today, he and Josh sit down to discuss his unique career, his absurd training volume, and his current project, La Rage D’Adam 9b+/5.15c. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - The secret to Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert’s training - Wil...
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  Good Temps #18 — Climbing In Baseball Stadiums, Ondra On Exodia V18, and The Flatanger Double Clutch 05.10.2026 54分

  This week’s episode ran a bit shorter than usual. To make it up to you, we’re including the Patreon bonus section for free! This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Will Anglin, Allison Vest, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
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  #199 Elias Iagnemma — The World's Hardest Boulder, Proposing A New Grade, and What Comes After Sending V18? 28.09.2026 1時間 17分

  Last November, after four years of projecting, Elias Iagnemma sent Exodia, and proposed the world’s first ever V18/9A+. The boulder has remained somewhat mysterious since then, with limited footage of it and little information on who has been trying it. Today, in Elias’s first English podcast appearance, he answers all the questions about Exodia that the climbing world has been asking for the past year. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - Sendi...
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  Board Talk #16 with Matt Fultz — The Benchmarking Process, The Brand New Core Board, and The “Harder” Version Of Hypnotized Minds 21.09.2026 1時間 15分

  Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Matt Fultz, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. SHOW NOTES Get Training Plans From Matt - https://otgstrength.com/ *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - How to be comfortable on small box climbs as a bigger cl...
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  #198 Austin Hoyt — Maintaining Progression At Your Limit, The Northeast’s V18, and What Separates The Younger Generation Of Climbers 14.09.2026 1時間 23分

  Austin Hoyt joins us every month for Good Temps, but after yet another season of levelling up, we had to bring him on the show to spotlight him as a guest. In this episode, Austin breaks down some of his recent sends, including Creature From The Black Lagoon V16, and tells us about his daunting V18 project. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - How Austin's approach to climbing has evolved with his progress - How to set easy and complex boulder...
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  Good Temps #17 — The Fastest 9b+ Send Ever, The Evolution Of Rocklands, and Is It Okay To Watch A Stranger’s Session? 07.09.2026 1時間 20分

  This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Allison Vest, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - The world’s best easy and moderate boulders Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
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  #197 WC Routesetter’s Roundtable — The Future of Routesetting, How Hard Are World Cups, and Fixing The Scoring System 31.08.2026 1時間 45分

  Ryan Sewell and Mike Bockino are two of the best routesetters in the world. Together they have almost 50 years of routesetting experience for countless USA Climbing events and World Cups. Today, they join Josh and Carlo to discuss the level of international events and the current direction of competition routesetting. They also debate Josh and Carlo's controversial opinions on the WC scoring system from Good Temps #16. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extende...
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  Board Talk #15 with Michael Rosato and Quinn Spadafora — Behind The Scenes Of Board Lords 10, 3 Months On The 16x12 TB2, and Japanese Board Lords 24.08.2026 1時間 16分

  Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Quinn Spadafora from Tension, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - How you can attend Board Lords - Was there a 3rd climb prepared for Bord Lords 10? - Mi...
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  #196 James Pearson — Climbing For Yourself, Expanding Your Skillset, and Why You Should Start Trad Climbing 17.08.2026 1時間 36分

  James Pearson climbs only the best lines. With a background in sketchy UK trad routes, a natural ability to send hard boulders, and an eye for aesthetics, it’s no wonder he’s managed to build a ticklist of some of the world’s most coveted ascents. Today, he joins Josh to try to convince us to take up trad climbing and break down his long career as a professional climber. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - James’s experience with Exodia V18 -...
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  Good Temps #16 — Austin Sends Another V16, Ondra’s ‘No Fall Day,’ and Should You Stack Pads? 10.08.2026 1時間 16分

  This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - Why Carlo sands everyday - The benefits of training comp moves for outdoor climbers Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
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  #195 Si Moore — Building Better Sessions, How To Send Boulders, and Why You Shouldn’t Fall In Your Training 03.08.2026 1時間 36分

  Si Moore has been coaching climbing since before it was a real job. Today, he coaches some of the world’s best climbers, and is the founder of Vertical Ascents, a company built on the foundation of movement science. Today, he and Josh sit down to discuss the philosophy that informs his coaching, and some of the most important lessons he teaches his clients. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - How to send your project - The benefits of training ...
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  Board Talk #14 with Adam Shahar — Crushing Slopers, Bigger Boards, and Adam’s 9A Double Clutch 27.07.2026 1時間 4分

  Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Adam Shahar, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* The secret to climbing on slopersAdam’s training routineEvery board’s hardest climb Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: ...
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  #194 Chris Deuto — No Fall Situations, Type 2 Fun, and Climbing The Southeast Ridge Of Cerro Torre 20.07.2026 1時間 48分

  Chris Deuto climbs everything. He’s bouldered V14, he’s sent hard 5.14s, he’s the youngest person to climb the Yosemite triple crown, and, most impressively, last year he climbed Cerro Torre’s southeast ridge. In this episode he breaks down the factors that make Cerro Torre such a difficult ascent, how he approaches the substantial danger in his climbing, and his career in climbing journalism. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - How do pitche...
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  Good Temps #15 — Noah Wheeler’s Rampage, Janja’s 50th Gold Medal, and Why Sending Is The Most Important Part Of Climbing 13.07.2026 1時間 16分

  This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Will Anglin, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - Should you use dog paw medicine? - Predictions for the second half of the year SHOW NOTES: Annie Sanders flashes the slab boulder at the Innsbruck World Cup finals ...
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  #193 Hazel Findlay — How To Try Hard, Flow Vs. Clutch, and The Psychology Of Execution 06.07.2026 1時間 27分

  You probably already know Hazel Findlay for climbing some of the world’s hardest, boldest trad routes. Today, she and Josh sit down to discuss her career as a pro climber, sports psychology, and unlocking the ability to dig deep and try as hard as you can. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - Hazel’s approach to danger in climbing - How Hazel balances hard projecting with being a parent SHOW NOTES: Trying hard is a skill. Here's how to train i...
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  Board Talk #13 with Brian Squire — Repeating The TB2’s Hardest Climb, How To Keep Your Feet On, and Why V13 Should Be The Hardest Board Grade 29.06.2026 1時間 14分

  Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Brian Squire, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* The hardest move ever on the TB2Is a Houdini Match allowed on a no matching boulder?Spray or Mirror for the TB2?Favorite angle...
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  #192 Matt Samet — 39 Years Of Climbing, The Great Debate, and The Lesser Known History Of Our Sport 22.06.2026 1時間 15分

  Matt Samet is the editor of the American Climbing Journal, and the oldest person to climb V10 on the TB2 (probably?). In this episode, Matt and Josh discuss the history of climbing, how its ethics developed into their current form, the state of climbing media, and lessons from a very long career in climbing. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - The most common climbing accidents, and how to prevent them - The best piece in the American Climbing ...
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  Good Temps #14 with Allison Vest — Janja Sends Bibliographie 5.15c, Katie Lamb FA’s V15, and Should Pro Climbers Have To Publicize Their Sends? 15.06.2026 1時間 39分

  This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Allison Vest, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - What makes Sorato Anraku so strong? - Is Dohyun Lee the world’s best board climber? - Will we see more climbers livestream their sends? Join Patreon: HERE Follow us...
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  #191 Lincoln Knowles — Soloing Choss, What Happens When Your Bubble Bursts, and The Mentality Of A Free Soloist 08.06.2026 1時間 25分

  You probably know Lincoln Knowles from instagram. Last year he started posting a series called, “Free soloing a harder route everyday until I fall.” Thankfully, he did not deliver on that, but the series did propel him to viral stardom and built him a career as a free soloist. Since then he’s made the first free solo ascent of Squawstruck, the longest sport climb in America, he’s soloed as hard as 5.12b/c, and he’s taken some of the world’s best climbers with him. Today, he joins Josh to talk...