Gem Pursuit: An Antique Jewellery Podcast

How to Get Into the Antique Jewellery Trade | Ask Me Anything 25.05.2026 42min

In this special Ask Me Anything episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew Weldon answers your jewellery and gemstone questions from how antique jewellery can be dated without hallmarks, to what truly makes a great emerald, and how newcomers can begin building a career in the jewellery trade. Along the way, Matthew discusses men’s engagement rings, buying instinct versus expertise, the changing world of online jewellery selling, and some unforgettable pieces that have passed through the shop over the years. Questions in this episode include: 💎 How do experts date jewellery without hallmarks? 💎 What makes a high-quality emerald? 💎 How have men’s engagement rings evolved over time? 💎 What’s the oldest piece Matthew has handled? 💎 How do you get started in the jewellery industry? 💎 What courses are actually worth taking? www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

The Orlov Diamond Mystery: Theft, Power & Lost History 11.05.2026 33min

Was the legendary Orlov Diamond once the eye of a Hindu idol before becoming part of the Russian Crown Jewels? In this episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew Weldon and Fenis Sigkoudi unravel the extraordinary story of the 189-carat diamond tied to Mughal emperors, Catherine the Great, theft, romance, and one of history’s greatest gem mysteries. www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

The Dresden Green: The Greatest Natural Green Diamond Ever Found 28.04.2026 49min

The Dresden Green Diamond is one of the rarest diamonds in the world and one of the most mysterious. Its vivid green colour looks almost unnatural… but it’s entirely real. In this episode, we explore how this extraordinary gem gets its colour from natural radiation deep within the Earth, why that makes it so exceptionally rare, and how it became one of Europe’s most treasured jewels. From royal collections to scientific fascination, the Dresden Green has captivated experts and admirers for centuries. Is it really too green to be true? Or is it proof that nature can outdo even the most ambitious jeweller? This is part of our ongoing diamond series. If you enjoyed the episode, make sure you’re subscribed wherever you listen, and if you have a moment, please rate and review the show on Spotify or Apple Podcasts. www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

A New Kind of Dealer: Antique Jewellery in a Social Media World 13.04.2026 54min

For generations, the antique jewellery trade has been built on discretion, reputation and knowledge passed quietly from one dealer to another. But that world is changing. In this episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew sits down with The Jewel Geek to explore what it means to develop an eye for antique jewellery in a more open, digital age. From early experiences buying at auction to building a network of trusted dealers, Brinder shares how his taste has evolved and how a combination of instinct, study and building relationships has helped him build a strong reputation in his short time in the trade. Along the way, they discuss the realities of the trade: overpaying, missing out, learning to recognise quality, and understanding what actually sells. They also reflect on the growing role of social media, the importance of educating new collectors, and why antique jewellery may be more relevant now than ever. www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

The Florentine Diamond: The Jewel That Vanished for a Century 23.03.2026 31min

In this episode of Gem Pursuit, we tell the extraordinary story of one of history’s greatest lost diamonds - the legendary Florentine. A pale yellow diamond of almost 140 carats, the Florentine passed through some of Europe’s most powerful dynasties, from the Medici family to the Habsburg emperors, before disappearing in the chaos that followed the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. For more than a century, its fate remained one of the great unsolved mysteries in gem history. Was it stolen, recut, or lost forever? Now, after over 100 years in the shadows, the Florentine has resurfaced - and its survival opens a new chapter in a story shaped by empire, exile, war and inheritance. In this episode, Matthew Weldon and Fenia Sigkoudi explore the stone’s disputed origins, its links to the Mughal world, its place in the Habsburg treasury, and the remarkable events that led to its rediscovery. This is part three of our ongoing diamond series. If you enjoyed the episode, make sure you’re subscribed wherever you listen, and if you have a moment, please rate and review the show on Spotify or Apple Podcasts. www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

Diamonds Part II: From Rough Crystal to Brilliant Cut 09.03.2026 38min

In the second part of our diamond series, we turn from science to history. After exploring how diamonds form and how they are cut in Part I, this episode follows the extraordinary journey of the diamond through human history. From the ancient riverbeds of India to the great discoveries in Brazil and South Africa, we trace how diamonds moved across continents, empires and centuries. Along the way we explore how diamond cutting evolved from simple polishing of natural crystals to increasingly sophisticated faceting techniques that transformed the stone’s beauty. From the earliest point cuts and table cuts to the rose cut, old mine cut and the beginnings of the modern brilliant, each development reflects changing technology, taste and the growing desire to unlock the diamond’s brilliance. This is the story of how a rare natural curiosity became one of the most important gemstones in jewellery history. In the next episode of this series, we’ll turn to one of the most mysterious diamonds ever known - the legendary Florentine. If you enjoyed the episode, make sure you’re subscribed wherever you listen to podcasts, and if you have a moment please leave us a rating or review on Spotify or Apple Podcasts. www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

Diamonds: Nature vs Craft, Art vs Science 23.02.2026 43min

Diamonds form over billions of years, deep within the Earth's mantle under unimaginable pressure. But what makes them truly extraordinary isn’t only what nature creates - it’s also what human hands choose to do next. In the first episode of our diamond series, we return to the stone we haven’t properly explored since the very early days of the podcast and ask a big question: where does nature end and craft begin? We unpack how diamonds are formed, revisit the 4 Cs, and take a close look at the one element entirely controlled by people: cut. What does a cutter actually do? How do they decide what to sacrifice and what to preserve? And why can a great cut transform a cloudy pebble into something unforgettable? www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

The Heart Motif in Jewellery 09.02.2026 26min

What is the most recognisable symbol in jewellery history? The heart. In this Valentine’s special episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew Weldon and Fenia Sigkoudi explore the enduring story of the heart motif — a symbol that has carried secret messages, sealed romantic promises, and expressed devotion for centuries. We begin in the ancient world, where the heart was believed to be the centre of the soul, and trace how medieval courtly love helped shape the heart into a romantic emblem. From early love tokens and poetic brooches to protective witch hearts and crowned double hearts, the symbol evolved into a powerful visual language of love, loyalty, and longing. The episode also explores the Victorian era’s obsession with sentimental heart jewellery, from Queen Victoria’s personal charm bracelets to mourning lockets containing hair and portraits. Moving into the 20th century, we look at wartime sweetheart lockets and Elsa Peretti’s revolutionary Open Heart design, which transformed the motif into a modern design icon. Finally, we turn to some of history’s most spectacular heart-shaped jewels, including Elizabeth Taylor’s Taj Mahal diamond, the legendary Blue Heart Diamond, and the technically astonishing Graff Venus — alongside iconic heart jewels worn by figures from Wallis Simpson to Lady Gaga. From intimate love tokens to world-famous gemstones, the heart has remained jewellery’s most timeless symbol — and it’s not going anywhere any time soon. www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

Andy Warhol's Secret Stash 26.01.2026 35min

Andy Warhol is one of the most recognisable artists of the 20th century, but after his death in 1987, it was what he owned that truly shocked the art world. Hidden inside his New York townhouse was a vast, obsessive, and deeply personal collection: furniture, fine art, kitsch, cookie jars, watches… and an extraordinary cache of jewellery he never wore in public. In this episode, we explore Andy Warhol the collector — from flea-market finds to Cartier, from Elsa Peretti for Tiffany to surrealist jewels by Salvador Dalí, modernist designs by Jean Després and the aquamarine parure once worn by Joan Crawford. We unpack the legendary Sotheby’s auctions that followed his death, the records they broke, and the moment a second secret stash of jewels and watches was discovered hidden in false-bottom drawers. A story of taste, obsession, secrecy, and the quiet extravagance behind one of art’s loudest icons. www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

Antique Jewellery in the Age of TikTok & AI 12.01.2026 26min

As the year turns, Matthew takes stock. In this New Year episode, he reflects on 2025 through the lens of a year spent travelling, learning, and paying close attention — from attending international fairs and events, to being nominated for and attending the TikTok Awards, and being elected to the Company of Goldsmiths in Dublin. The conversation then widens to eight years in business at the shop, looking at what has genuinely changed in the jewellery world over that time — from the growing role of social media and self-education, to shifting ideas of expertise and authority. Matthew considers the rise of AI and digital tools in identifying antiques and reproductions, and where human knowledge, judgement, and experience still matter most. Finally, he looks ahead to 2026, sharing thoughts on the metals, stones, styles, and movements that feel increasingly significant, as well as the fairs and moments worth watching in the year to come. A considered reflection on jewellery, experience, and perspective — and on how the industry continues to evolve, often in unexpected ways.www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

Xmas 2025 Ask us Anything Special 22.12.2025 49min

In this festive special episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew and Fenia answer your brilliant listener questions in a cosy, end-of-year Ask Us Anything special. From spotting the subtle clues that date antique jewellery, to underrated gemstones, lost craft techniques, emotional motifs, and even the idea of cursed pieces, this episode is a wide-ranging chat for anyone who loves jewellery history and storytelling. ✨ Questions covered include: • How do you really spot the characteristics of different jewellery eras? • What gemstones deserve more love (and why does peridot divide opinion)? • Old-cut diamonds you don’t see used today • Can jewellery be cursed — and what should you do if it is? • The most popular antique engagement ring settings • Identifying yellow gemstones in antique rings • Lost art forms and skills antique jewellers mastered • Motifs with the deepest emotional power — then and now • Paste jewellery and how it was historically worn • How to spot gold plating versus solid gold (without testing) www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

Jewellery in Paintings: Jane Morris (The Blue Silk Dress) 08.12.2025 49min

Jane Morris was a muse of the Pre-Raphaelites, a central figure in the early Arts & Crafts movement and the quietly powerful presence at the heart of an influential artistic circle. In this episode, Matthew and Fenia explore the story behind Rossetti’s The Blue Silk Dress, focusing on the jewellery Jane wears and the symbolism carried within the portrait. Drawing only on what is known from surviving records, letters and the painting itself, we trace Jane’s path from Oxford to her role within the Morris household and the artistic world that formed around it. The bracelet, the brooch, the rich textiles and embroidery — each reflects the ideals that would shape both the Pre-Raphaelite and Arts & Crafts movements. www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

Jewellery in Paintings: Princess Caroline of Monaco 24.11.2025 32min

In this episode, we explore Andy Warhol’s silkscreen print portrait of Caroline of Monaco, created for Vogue in the early 1980s. We discuss the bold colours, big hair, bare-back pose, and the striking sapphire-and-diamond jewels that define the portrait’s 1980s style. We also look at the pop art movement, celebrity culture, and Caroline’s reputation as the “rebel princess”. Beyond the portrait, we dive into two extraordinary pieces connected to Caroline: a Belle Époque reed stomacher symbolising resilience, and a 1910 platinum and blue-enamel Valkyrie-style headpiece with detachable wings. The conversation highlights her creative, versatile approach to jewellery and the multifaceted personality reflected in her portraits and pieces. www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

Jewellery in Paintings: The Drake Jewell 10.11.2025 30min

In the latest episode of our Jewellery in Paintings series Matthew is joined by Courtville historian Fenia Sigkoudi to explore The Drake Jewel - a magnificent Renaissance pendant that intertwines art, politics and piracy! Once gifted by Queen Elizabeth I to Sir Francis Drake, the jewel tells an extraordinary story of ambition, power and symbolism. Matthew and Fenia trace how this locket became a statement of status, propaganda and personal connection between monarch and privateer. From its intricate cameo to its hidden “mask of youth” portrait, this episode uncovers the legacy of one of England’s most storied treasures. www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

The Louvre Jewellery Heist 27.10.2025 27min

In this special episode of Gem Pursuit, we turn from the past to the present — and to one of the most daring jewellery thefts in recent memory. In October 2025, eight pieces of the French Crown Jewels were stolen in broad daylight from the Louvre’s Galerie d’Apollon. Valued at €88 million, the missing treasures include the tiara of Empress Eugénie and the emeralds of Empress Marie Louise — jewels once worn at the height of imperial splendour, now vanished without a trace. Matthew unpacks what happened, how the heist unfolded, and the remarkable stories behind each stolen piece. Were the thieves experts, opportunists, or just reckless? And could these legendary jewels one day resurface — as they have so many times before in history? Watch this episode on YouTube and follow @gempursuitpod on Instagram for more stories from the world of antique jewellery. www.courtville.ie This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck.

Jewellery in Paintings: Girl with a Pearl Earring 29.09.2025 27min

In this brand new series of Gem Pursuit, we step into the world of fine art to uncover the jewels hidden on canvas. Jewellery in Paintings explores how artists captured the sparkle, symbolism, and status of gems throughout history. We begin with one of the most iconic images in Western art: Johannes Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring. Often called the “Mona Lisa of the North,” this enigmatic portrait has fascinated viewers for centuries. But what about the jewel itself? In this episode, we explore the mystery of the pearl, what it reveals about 17th-century Dutch society, and why such a simple adornment continues to shine as a timeless ideal of beauty. Whether you’re standing in front of the painting in The Hague or simply picturing it in your mind, this episode offers a sparkling new perspective on an old master. www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

Instinct at Work: Adventures in Antique Jewellery with Michael Singer 15.09.2025 38min

Matthew and Alyce welcome back renowned antique jewellery specialist Michael Singer, Director of Acquisitions at Windsor, New York. Michael shares stories of some remarkable adventures from his decades in the trade including trading a 15th-century manuscript for a Kashmir sapphire, finding a one-of-a-kind Tiffany necklace with ties to the French royal family and bending the rules of an auction...for love! Michael also reflects on the lost buzz of New York’s 47th Street, the importance of trusting your instincts, the influence of his father on his career and also shares numerous insider tips such as which antique jewellery he thinks is the most undervalued collectible in America today. www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

Three Stories Every Jewellery Salesperson Needs to Know (Live from Las Vegas) 01.09.2025 20min

We are delighted to be back from our summer mini-hiatus and have been busy working away on our exciting upcoming podcast series. We'll say no more about that for now.... In the meantime, something a little bit different - a solo Matthew episode, recorded at the Couture Show in Las Vegas back in May of this year. Courtville was exhibiting at the Antique Jewellery and Watch Show down the hall and were asked to give a talk at one of their educational events. Matthew spoke to a live audience of jewellery salespeople but these are insights that will be just as relevant for people who are interested and curious about the history of jewellery design. www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

Lalique 21.07.2025 54min

For our 100th episode of Gem Pursuit, we’re throwing it back to one of your Firm Favourites — the legendary house of Lalique. This special episode marks not just a podcast milestone, but also the 100-year anniversary of the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs — the defining moment of the Art Deco era, and a showcase for Lalique’s visionary designs. We revisit the artistry, innovation, and sheer drama of René Lalique’s work, from his pioneering use of materials to the way he blurred the boundaries between fine art and fine jewellery. And to celebrate 100 episodes together, we’re playing a one-off game: The Jewel-y-weds Game — where Alyce and Matthew test how well they really know each other after a hundred episodes of sparkling stories, tricky trivia, and heated debates. Thank you for joining us on our Gem Pursuit. Here’s to the next hundred! www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

Opal Tiara | V&A Cartier Exhbition (Audio guide) 07.07.2025 20min

In this special series of Gem Pursuit, we put a spotlight on some of the most important Cartier pieces of the 20th century, currently on display at the V&A museum in London. In each episode, we take a closer look at a different extraordinary piece, uncovering its story, design, and place in jewellery history. This is your audio guide to the Opal Tiara, once worn by Mary Alice Cavendish, Duchess of Devonshire. Set with luminous opals and shimmering diamonds, this ethereal tiara captures a moment when Cartier reimagined regal tradition with a fresh, modern elegance. In this episode, we explore the design that crowned a duchess and the craftsmanship that makes it timeless. This item can currently be admired up close in the Tiara Room at the V&A exhibition in London - the final gallery of the exhibition. If you can't make it to the exhibit, check out the V&A website and view the pieces for yourself. www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck