Hairspring

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• Episode 98: Third-Generation Independents, an Introduction 06.07.2026 1ชม. 25นาที

  Over the last five years, independent watchmaking has blossomed. This week, Erik & Max make an introduction to some names that have begun in recent years and are off to a promising start. Conversations include the basic framework and some thoughts on Clegeur, Pierre, Phimphrachanh, Birchall, Claeys, the Bernhards, Hazemann & Monnin, Lass, FaH, Mineroci, and even Bonniksen. Cleguer:https://cleguer.com/en-gbhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cleguer-debuts-the-inspiration-one-with-a-proprietary-innate-escapementhttps://watchesbysjx.com/2026/05/cleguer-inspiration-one-review.htmlhttps://revolutionwatch.com/mathieu-cleguer-makes-his-debut-with-the-inspiration-one-souscription/Stéphane Pierre:https://stephanepierre.comhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-stephane-pierre-limpetranthttps://watchesbysjx.com/2026/04/stephane-pierre-l-impetrant.htmlDann Phimphrachanh:https://www.instagram.com/dann.phimphrachanh/?hl=enhttps://watchesbysjx.com/2025/08/dann-phimphrachanh-profile.htmlhttps://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/an-afternoon-with-dann-phimphrachanhhttps://sfwatchlover.substack.com/p/an-exclusive-profile-of-dann-phimphrachanhAlan Birchall:https://www.a-birchall.comhttps://monochrome-watches.com/portrait-alan-birchall-independent-watchmaker-piece-d-essai-no-00-artisanal-watchmaking/https://www.isochrono.com/p/inside-tajimi-watching-a-handmadeKallinich Claeys:https://www.kallinichclaeys.com/enhttps://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/a-visit-to-glashuttes-newest-independentL’Atelier Bernhard:https://www.instagram.com/l_atelier_bernard/?hl=enhttps://monochrome-watches.com/portrait-atelier-bernard-the-owl-bernard-van-ormelingen-bernard-braboretz-independent-watchmaking-duplex-escapement-interview/https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/12/latelier-bernard-owl-duplex.htmlHazemann & Monnin:https://hazemann-monnin.ch/en/index.htmlhttps://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/interview-hazemann-and-monninChristian Lass:https://www.instagram.com/christian_lass/https://christianlass.dkFam al Hut:https://www.famalhut.com/en/index.htmlMineroci:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/one-to-watch-minerociBonniksen Le Carrousel:https://monochrome-watches.com/announcing-naissance-une-montre-4-carrousel-project-bonniksen-aeon-foundation-news/Only Wrist:http://www.hajimeasaoka.com/timepieces_chrinograph_EN.htmlhttps://monochrome-watches.com/just-because-logan-kuan-rao-double-detent-escapement-prototype-unique-piece-chinese-indepenent-watchmaker/https://hairspring.com/products/701-011-pour-le-merite-tourbillon-pink-goldhttps://thekeystone.com/products/audemars-piguet-platinum-jump-hour-minute-repeater-watch-ref-25723
• Episode 97: Our Unpopular Opinions 26.06.2026 1ชม.

  While prior episodes have covered your hot takes, this week’s discussion sees Erik & Max dive into a few controversial views of their own. From undisclosed ebauches in independent work today to silicon going widespread, or moonphase accuracy across to 6538s, there’s a lot to unpack here. University of Utah Hot on Journe?:https://shorturl.at/cSCXN6538 at Sotheby’s:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches/reference-5510-big-crown-submariner-a-stainlessPetermann Bédat 2941:https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.htmlPinaud Chronograph:https://www.sylvain-pinaud.com/the-monopoussoir-chronograph/LeComte:https://monochrome-watches.com/florent-lecomte-a-recently-discovered-gem-of-independent-watchmaking/A bit on Akrivia and MHC/BNB Concept:https://revolutionwatch.com/the-three-kings-of-independent-watchmaking/Famous Lange Service 17K Bill:https://www.reddit.com/r/ALangeSohne/comments/1gmdmha/17k_service_bill/3970:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/3970ep-small-hallmark-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum3940:https://hairspring.com/products/3940p-perpetual-calendar-third-series-platinumAuctions Primer:https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/buying-watch-auction-guide881101/01 Clapton:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/881101-01-clapton-universal-geneve-tri-compaxPatek’s March to Silicon:https://collectability.com/learn/patek-philippe-advanced-research-made-simple/Rolex Silicon:https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-dynapulse-escapement-in-depth-technical-explanation-5hz-calibre-7135-syloxi-hairspring-review/A Great Moonphase Read:https://jackforster.substack.com/p/challenge-to-watchmakers-whos-upOnly Wrist:https://hairspring.com/products/h11-central-balance-blue-dial-pink-goldhttps://hairspring.com/products/insight-micro-rotor-titaniumhttps://hairspring.com/products/2526j-calatrava-frecerro-dial-yellow-goldhttps://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/
• Episode 96: Q&A (Pt. 8) 09.06.2026 1ชม. 24นาที

  This month’s Q&A went all over the map. Erik & Max answer the Ferrari Luce equivalent from the Holy Trinity, market updates, if Cartier hype has passed, the one watch collection, and the greatest neo-vintage values today. Links Mentioned: Arkansas:https://crystalbridges.org6105G:https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/6105g-0015170:https://hairspring.com/products/chronograph-black-dial-white-gold5172:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5172g-hand-wound-chronograph-photosTamara Ralph:https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch/ap-x-tamara-ralph.html15202:https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/15202ST.OO.1240ST.01.A.htmlVC 56:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-fiftysix-self-windingVC Quai de L’Île:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-quai-de-lile-in-steelCabaret:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-cabaret-tourbillon-in-honeygoldSaxonia:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-saxonia/NYC Watch Guy’s Analysis:https://medium.com/@nycwatchguys/the-bull-case-for-watches-9a56450baf1e@Niccoloy:https://www.instagram.com/niccoloy/@Young.Brando:https://www.instagram.com/young.brando/WatchCharts (Hit Max Timeline):https://watchcharts.com/watches/indexes?utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email5251 Portofino:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5251-iwc-portofino-moonphaseUJ:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/reference-8-yellow-gold5020:https://www.phillips.com/article/133156594/patek-philippe-5020-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-guideJohn Shaeffer:https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/205999https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/201306Tank Monopoussoir:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/cartier-cpcp-2846-tank-monopoussoirHamatic:https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-moritz-grossmann-hamatic-argente-pendulum-winding-calibre-106-saxony-glashutte-rose-gold-specs-price-review/1463:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/1220185070: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/saatchi-salmon-dial-5070g-014-patek-philippe-chronographPLM:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/1675:https://hairspring.com/products/1675-gilt-exclamation-dial-gmt-master-steelOdysseus:https://hairspring.com/products/363-179-odysseus-steelDeadbeat Seconds:https://thedeadbeatseconds.substack.comGrantland:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GrantlandLook at my *Expletive* Red Trousers:https://lookatmyfuckingredtrousers.blogspot.com1815 Thin Honey:https://hairspring.com/products/239-050-1815-thin-homage-to-fa-lange-honey-gold5740:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5740g-patek-philippe-nautilus-perpetual-calendar5270:https://hairspring.com/products/5270r5374:https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5374g-001Independent Picks:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/chronometre-artisanshttps://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/mirage-38-prussian-blue-white-gold-1https://www.phillips.com/detail/petermann-bedat/2054702RE:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/ferdinand-berthoud-fb-2re-1Handmade:https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/01/greubel-forsey-hand-made-1-review.html6238:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/6238-pre-daytona-chronograph-black-galvanic-dial-steel-1Sports Betting:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584544https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584458https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/231677https://www.phillips.com/detail/auffret-paris/231274https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-ge2601/chronometre-bleu-reference-cb-a-tantalumhttps://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584401Only Wrist:https://hairspring.com/products/sport-auto-blue-titaniumhttps://hairspring.com/products/363-179-odysseus-steelhttps://hairspring.com/products/1655-explorer-ii-steel
• Episode 95: A. Langer One (Pt. 2, 2000-Present) 25.05.2026 1ชม. 37นาที

  Part 2 of Episode 66 has finally come to pass. This episode chronicles the notable history of A. Lange & Söhne from acquisition by Richemont and Günter Blümlein’s passing in 2001 until the present. This episode targets key folks involved, notable successes and releases, stories/lore often told, and basics of leadership. We hope this episode brings some learning and a few fun facts along the way. Links Mentioned: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/manufacture/news-and-events/gunter-blumleinThe Richemont Umbrella:https://www.richemont.comFabian Krone Interview:https://people.timezone.com/mdisher/lange/fkint/fkinterview.htmAnthony de Haas Interviews:https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/history-a-lange-sohne-anthony-de-hasshttps://revolutionwatch.com/lange-sohne-anthony-de-haas-zeitwerk-minute-repeater/Tino Bobe Interviews:https://yachtstyle.co/a-lange-sohnes-tino-bobe-on-keeping-time-with-tradition/https://escapementmagazine.com/articles/tino-bobe-a-lange-sohne/https://www.luxuo.com/leaders/watches-leaders/securing-the-future.htmlKrone-Era Watches:Lange 1 Tourbillon:https://hairspring.com/products/704-025-lange-1-tourbillon-platinumhttps://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-tourbillon/Langematik QP:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/310-021-langematik-perpetual-calendar-yellow-goldDouble Split:https://hairspring.com/products/404-032-double-splithttps://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-double-split-rattrapante/Tourbograph PLM:https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/141658Zeitwerk Story:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/140-035-zeitwerk-lumen-phantom-platinum-1https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-zeitwerk/https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/10/lange-zeitwerk-guide.htmlWilhelm Schmid Interviews:https://oracleoftime.com/a-lange-sohne-ceo-wilhelm-schmid-interview/https://www.watchpro.com/the-big-interview-a-lange-sohne-ceo-wilhelm-schmid/https://squaremile.com/watches/wilhelm-schmid-ceo-lange-sohne-interview/https://www.watchonista.com/articles/interviews/chat-lange-sohne-ceo-wilhelm-schmid-about-numbers-community-and-luxury-retailDatograph U/D:https://hairspring.com/products/405-035-datograph-up-down-platinumLange 1 Perpetual Calendar:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar-tourbillon/https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-tourbillon-lumenGrand Comp:https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/1815/grand-complicationhttps://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-grand-complication/https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-a-lange-sohne-grand-complication2015 New Manufacture:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-opens-new-manufactory-buildingTriple Split:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-triple-split-introducingOdysseus:https://hairspring.com/products/363-179-odysseus-steelhttps://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-odysseus/Distribution:https://revolutionwatch.com/a-lange-sohne-salons-boutiques/Honey Gold:https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/honey-gold-watchesLumen:https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/lumenHandwerkskunst:https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/handwerkskunst-editionsFavorites:https://www.acollectedman.com/products/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-dubail-white-goldhttps://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/176317https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/1815/tourbograph-perpetual-honeygold-homage-to-f-a-lange/tourbograph-perpetual-honeygold-homage-to-f-a-lange-in-750-honeygold-706-050https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-i-2/lange-1-leon-martens-maastricht-reference-101-047https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/153737 Only Wrist:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/403-035-datograph-first-generation-platinumhttps://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/167254
• Episode 94: Dissecting an Auction Catalogue & Sports Betting 14.05.2026 1ชม. 19นาที

  Erik & Max pick apart the three big sales happening this spring, to help give a framework for analyzing collectors' behavior, see what’s changing in the market, and have some fun. Then, the game is on as five lots are each picked with a bet value to be achieved estimated (this was recorded May 5) ahead of time—and an over/under from the opposing host. Plus, an Only Wrist for the 90s lovers. Links Mentioned: The Three Sales in Question:https://www.phillips.com/auction/CH080226https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-ge2601https://www.christies.com/en/auction/rare-watches-31080/The PLM Result over 1M:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-4/tourbillon-pour-le-merite-reference-701-007-aPrototype Urban Jurgensen:https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jürgensen/231710Prototype AP:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584403https://www.phillips.com/auction/CH080226Sports Betting:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584544https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584458https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/231677https://www.phillips.com/detail/auffret-paris/231274https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-ge2601/chronometre-bleu-reference-cb-a-tantalumhttps://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584401Highest Hammer Relative to Estimate:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/232384https://www.phillips.com/detail/f.p.-journe/229223https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/191622Wildcard That Could be 1/3 or 3X Estimate:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584504Case Patina:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/191674Cleaned 1526:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/1915775007P:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/232263Only Wrist:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6139093https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/passion-time-important-private-collection-watches-timepieces-online/audemars-piguet-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar-royal-oak-moon-phases-2237/201101
• Episode 93: Winners & Blunders 2026 29.04.2026 1ชม. 3นาที

  Watch & Wonders has come and past, but what of this year’s releases might be enduring? And what, if anything, was a complete mistake? This is the Winners & Blunders of 2026, where for every pick in the top and worst category, Erik & Max also include an alternate vintage pick to consider. Links Mentioned: Winners:Streamliner 34:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/h-moser-and-cie-introduces-the-streamliner-two-hands-in-28mm-and-34mmStreamliner QP:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-moser-streamliner-perpetual-conceptAlternate:https://hairspring.com/products/25594st-royal-oak-day-date-moonphase-steelSaxonia Annual 36:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-downsizes-the-saxonia-annual-calendar-to-36mmAlternate:https://hairspring.com/products/330-039-saxonia-annual-calendar-u-s-boutique-white-goldLange 1 Tourbillon QP Lumen:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-lange-1-tourbillon-perpetual-calendar-lumenPrecious OP:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-goes-full-solid-gold-in-34mm-and-28mm-ref-124205-and-276208Alternate:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/watches-13/rolex-reference-1002-a-stainless-steel-wristwatchEnamel Daytona:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-cosmograph-daytona-reference-126502-in-rolesium-with-enamel-dial-and-grey-bezelAlternate:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/128046VC:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-overseas-ultra-thin-2500vhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-vacheron-historiques-american-1921-rosehttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-overseas-dual-time-cardinal-pointsAlternate:https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/225008RRCHF:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rexhep-rexhepi-chronograph-flyback-rrchfAlternate:https://hairspring.com/products/414-028-1815-chronograph-white-goldBlunders:6105G:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-6105gAlternate:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/2577r-calatrava-enamel-dial-pink-goldhttps://hairspring.com/products/anywhere-aurora-titaniumIWC Vertical Drive:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/iwc-heads-for-space-with-the-pilots-venturer-vertical-drive-with-spaceflight-qualification-from-vasthttps://www.ulysse-nardin.com/about-us/unvrs/freak-2001https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/jaeger-lecoultre-amvox-q192t440-10-10-jlc-yzr0esAlternate:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/105-012-66-omega-speedmasterCartier:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-celebrates-10-editions-of-prive-with-six-new-editionsAlternate:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2396-cartier-cpcp-monopoussoirJLC Master Control Chronometre:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-master-control-chronometre-a-new-integrated-bracelet-sport-watch-in-three-modelAlternate:https://www.berneron.ch/quantieme-annuel-blackhttps://hairspring.com/products/25654st-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-salmon-dial-steelOnly Wrist:Grahame Fowler:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-thirteen-milsubs-of-grahame-fowlerhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-grahame-fowlerMN:https://hairspring.com/products/9401-0-marine-nationale-submariner-steelLangematik:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-langematik/
• Episode 92: Pub Trivia 22.04.2026 1ชม. 10นาที

  Collectors love a good fun fact, unknown history, or unexpected trivia. This episode is full of all of that. From co-axial Nautilus and a Rolex QP to Houdini and Carl Jung, it’s all here. We guarantee, regardless of just how educated you are, there’ll be a fact in here you won’t have known prior. A huge thank you to all of you, the audience, for contributing to this knowledge base. Plus, and Only Wrist for a train conductor. Links Mentioned: Early Daniels Escapements in Normal Watches:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/worlds-first-wristwatch-co-axial-escapement-london-science-museum-patekhttps://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2012/george-daniels-so-l12313/lot.21.htmlScott Carpenter History:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/scott-carpenters-breitling-cosmonaute-the-first-swiss-wristwatch-worn-in-spaceArtemis II Watches:https://www.watchesofespionage.com/blogs/woe-dispatch/watches-artemis-ii-moon-omega-speedmaster-breitingWalter Lange:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-homage-to-walter-lange/Round Pusher Vichet 2499:https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/12/patek-philippe-2499-vichet-case-round-pushers.htmlTheft of the Marie Antoinette:https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/the-time-thief-who-stole-106-rare-clocks-in-a-daring-heist-180981979/https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naaman_DillerRolex QP:https://revolutionwatch.com/rare-finds-rolex-perpetual-calendar-oysterquartz/https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-prototype-oysterquartz-lot-329-378 (Most Recent Sale) *Modified Datejust QP was allegedly Muller not Dubuis, we messed up!1921 Vacheron True Heritage:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/an-original-vacheron-constantin-american-1921-from-1919New 1921:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-vacheron-historiques-american-1921-roseReconstructed in Traditional Method: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/this-piece-unique-vacheron-is-proof-that-sometimes-they-do-make-em-like-they-used-toHR Ekegren:https://obwcollection.com/products/h-r-ekegren-minute-repeater-wristwatch1735:https://www.watchprosite.com/blancpain/more-on-the-iconic-blancpain-1735/4.1185931.9517651/Piaget Gouverneur Grande Sonnerie:https://www.phillips.com/article/158023235/when-fp-journe-worked-with-piaget4113:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/133343?fromSearch=4113Offshore:https://www.phillips.com/article/37249232/the-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-offshore-the-man-who-made-it-and-the-watch-that-honours-itCarl Jung:https://monochrome-watches.com/a-most-dangerous-watch-company-iwc-and-carl-jung/IWC 3519:https://revolutionwatch.com/special-service-the-iwc-porsche-design-ref-3519-amag/The Most Confusing Broad Arrow:https://www.casowatches.com/catalogo/seamaster-ref-14755-61/Roubert-Houdin:https://www.horloger.net/purchase-sales/mystery-clocks/74-robert-houdin-triple-mystery-clock/https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-enchanting-allure-of-cartiers-mystery-clocks6062 Cosmograph Ad:https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2012/03/rolex-cosmograph-moonphase-1957.html#/page/25738/1R:https://www.patek.com/en/collection/golden-ellipse/5738-1r-001Only Wrist:https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaegerlecoultre/125546https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-geophysic-1958https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-past-present-and-future-of-the-rolex-milgausshttps://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/189354?fromSearch=1019
• Episode 91: Enamel 101 10.04.2026 1ชม. 6นาที

  A longstanding craft which has graced some of the greatest wristwatches made, this episode studies the basics of enamel dials and their application in wristwatches. From historical roots until work being performed today, Erik & Max cover the main techniques of Grand Feu, Cloisonné, Champlevé, Flinqué, and engraved enamel. Nuanced, examples, techniques, and the background needed to begin conversations about the topic of enamel dials are all in here. Links Mentioned: Peter Henlein Nuremberg Eggs:https://quillandpad.com/2014/12/15/the-worlds-oldest-watch-a-peter-henlein-mystery-from-1505-solved/Jean Toutin:https://www.themagazineantiques.com/article/seventeenth-century-french-enameled-watches-walters-art-gallery/Miklos Merczel JLC:https://quillandpad.com/2014/07/23/jaeger-lecoultres-art-of-in-house-enameling/Daniel Quare:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_QuareGrand Feu:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-2526-enamel-dial-donze-cadranshttps://hairspring.com/products/5370p-split-seconds-chronograph-platinum-1https://hairspring.com/products/tourbillon-double-spiral-besancon-certified-white-gold_43241Cloisonné:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080121/33https://watchesbysjx.com/2024/04/patek-philippe-world-time-cloisonne-605-hu-de-world-map-pink-gold.htmlhttps://watchesbysjx.com/2016/07/why-are-vintage-cloisonne-enamel-dial-watches-collectible.htmlhttps://www.watchonista.com/articles/events/prix-gaia-2019-suzanne-rohr-craftmanship-creation-categoryhttps://www.europastar.com/the-watch-files/portraits/1004113605-the-multiple-talents-of-enamellist-anita-porchet.htmlhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzPx_hj6tCcChamplevé:https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-krayon-anywhere-for-only-watch-2021/https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/watches-with-an-enamel-dialhttps://www.patek.com/en/collection/golden-ellipse/5738-51g-001Flinqué:https://www.patek.com/en/collection/calatrava/4997-200g-001https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/life-is-a-cabaret-lange-handwerkskunst-tourbillon-that-ishttps://watchesbysjx.com/2019/05/hands-on-with-the-voutilainen-28-te-in-enamel.htmlhttps://www.acollectedman.com/products/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-ii-platinumEngraved Enamel:https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/engraved-enamel-why-some-dials-neverhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/qin-gan-independent-watchmaker-from-chinaFavorites:2526:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2526-patek-philippe-calatrava-white-gold6101:https://le-monde-edmond.com/enamel_rolex_dials/2523 Gobbi:https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/11/patek-philippe-2523-worldtime-most-expensive-watch-sold.html2699 Constellation:https://thekeystone.com/products/omega-yellow-gold-constellation-geneva-observatory-cloisonne-watch3428P:https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/1415:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/112503?fromSearch=14155231:https://www.patek.com/en/collection/complications/5231g-001Only Wrist:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar/https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-sincere-singapore-ref-112-049-limited-edition-64/145895
• Episode 90: Kari Voutilainen 17.03.2026 43นาที

  This week Erik & Max are thrilled to be joined by legend of independent watchmaking Kari Voutilainen. We explore the early days of branching out on his own, what makes him excited in watchmaking, the challenges of being independent, why big brands don’t innovate, and of course how things are going reviving Urban Jürgensen. It was an honor and delight to capture Mr. Voutilainen’s thoughts on watchmaking this point in his career, which we hope you enjoy. Links Mentioned: Voutilainen’s Early Story:https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/watchmaking-journey-kari-voutilainenThe 2013 V-8R with Power Reserve:https://watchesbysjx.com/2013/04/baselworld-2013-voutilainen-v-8r.htmlComblémine SA:https://comblemine.chObservatoire:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/brown-guilloche-dial-voutilainen-observatoire-1Urban Jürgensen Relaunch:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-urban-jurgensen-returns-2025Pratt Oval Pocket Watch:https://www.phillips.com/article/149733060/derek-pratts-oval-pocket-watch-voutilainen-urban-jurgensen-phillips-reloadedWatch Mr Voutilainen is Googling Recently:https://www.phillips.com/detail/andreas-strehler/190853Last Watch which Impressed Mr Voutilainen in Person:https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/zeitwerk/zeitwerk-decimal-strike-honeygoldhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-1815-gets-a-34mm-caseThe 3 Watch Roll:https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/11/breguet-1890-four-minute-tourbillon-sothebys.htmlhttps://quillandpad.com/2016/07/21/let-eat-cake-intriguing-story-marie-antoinette-legendary-breguet-pocket-watch-no-160/https://watchesbysjx.com/2017/09/the-fake-rivalry-that-created-the-worlds-most-expensive-timepiece.htmlOnly Wrist:https://hairspring.com/products/16528-daytona-floating-cosmograph-gold-dial-yellow-goldhttps://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steelhttps://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/longines-13zn-still-collectiblehttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/885104-01-universal-geneve-space-compax-1
• Episode 89: Retroactive Bidding Circa 2016 11.03.2026 1ชม. 28นาที

  Erik & Max time travel to 2016 to attempt to spend various budgets this week. It’s retroactive bidding, with the best 10k, 50k, and 200k picks all included. From cloissoné Polerouters to Patek bracelets and 30k Resonance, this one was a blast. Plus and Only Wrist that’s relevant if you drive motorcycles for UberEats. It’s worth opening all the tabs linked for this exercise. Links Mentioned: https://www.watchpro.com/billions-wiped-off-the-value-of-breitling/https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/with-rolex-and-cartier-in-another-league-a-deep-dive-on-whos-making-gains-and-whos-feeling-pain-in-t10K and Under: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5993005https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/100180https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/quick-study-omega-seamaster-chronographshttps://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-n09593/lot.52.htmlhttps://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/iwc-ref-r-816-ad-lot-302-11https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/99735https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaeger-lecoultre/9807150K and Under:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5992999https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/a-lange-sohne-lot-300-164https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-ge1604/lot.275.htmlhttps://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6003298https://www.phillips.com/detail/universal/101404https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028350https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-ge1604/lot.7.html200K and Under:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6003385https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028355https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-n09593/lot.272.htmlhttps://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/watches-l16053/lot.140.htmlhttps://www.phillips.com/detail/breguet/97620https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/97159Unlimited:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028459https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/100888https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-ge1604/lot.317.htmlhttps://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/97683https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/97817Wildcard:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5976969?ldp_breadcrumb=backhttps://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/101552Only Wrist:https://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steelhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/145-005-ultraman-omega-seamaster-321
• Episode 88: Audemars Piguet Beyond the Royal Oak 20.02.2026 57นาที

  Erik & Max venture into the side of the AP back catalogue far too often forgotten and overlooked: non-RO vintage. From the Clover to the 1533 or Star Wheel Repeaters and restomod Cartier, the depth of value that exists in AP’s posterity is immense. If you’ve ever wondered what the first Tuscan ref is, who A l’Emeraude is, or what a Disco Volante has in common with today’s independents—listen in. Plus an only wrist for a Patek AD. Links Mentioned: 5516:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audemars-piguet-reference-5516-perpetual-calendarJohn Shaeffer Collecting Guide:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/buying-selling-collecting-john-shaeffer-repeaters25881 Explainer:https://singaporewatchclub.com/blogs/articles/john-shaeffer-ap-s-best-kept-secret25881 Purple Dial:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-7/repetition-minutes-john-schaeffer-reference-25881Ceramic-Link Bamboo ref. 66192 & 66172:https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--cd79969e-bfab-495f-8049-3a18d16e361a/ap-chronicles-image.webphttps://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/audemars-piguet-bamboo-ref-66172ba-gold-diamond-set-quartz-wristwatch-24/1655335072:https://www.db1983.com/product-page/audemars-piguet-5072st-vzssc-37mm-19555503:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/inside-the-archives-of-audemars-piguethttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-vacheron-minute-repeater-at-christies (Scroll Down Here)831:https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/183251?fromSearch=831Collaboration Work with Cartier:https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080515/233 (Erik was Wrong, Henry is in fact American not English!)https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier-and-audemars-piguet/221688?fromSearch=audemars%20piguet%20cartier&searchPage=11533:https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/90520https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/12259825681PT ‘Clover’:https://www.acollectedman.com/products/quantieme-perpetuel-clover-asprey5661 / ref. 25661 Tuscan:https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/audemars-piguet-quantieme-perpetuel-tuscan/25557:https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/asset/140_carousel16_2v2 (Rightmost)https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-part-i/reference-25557ba-a-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar5548:https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/reference-talk-audemars-piguet-quantieme-perpetual-automatiqueAP Calibre 2003:https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/calibre/Calibre-20035093BC:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/gubelin-signed-5093bc-audemars-piguet-disco-volanteA l’Emeraude QP:https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080424/145(Which Inspired this https://monochrome-watches.com/collectors-series-nopstar83-audemars-piguet-edward-piguet-ultra-thin-skeleton-perpetual-25734or/)5740:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5740g-patek-philippe-nautilus-perpetual-calendar6196P:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-6196p-the-best-calatrava-in-a-generation5270:https://hairspring.com/products/5270r-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-pink-gold
• Episode 87: Our Ultimate 3 Watch Collections 11.02.2026 1ชม. 10นาที

  The title says it all here, with one twist. First, Erik & Max guess each other’s ideal 3 watch collections—a reverse grail collection built for each other. Then it’s the actual current 3-watch grail collection, no holds barred. Many watches are discussed, few make the grade. You all asked, many times, here we are. Plus, an Only Wrist for a Houston electrician. Links Mentioned: 404.032:https://hairspring.com/products/404-032-double-split6105:https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-25/lot-272Early Datejust Reading:https://le-monde-edmond.com/datejust-a-closer-look-at-a-rolex-icon-2/Clapton 5004R:https://www.phillips.com/detail/PATEK-PHILIPPE/HK080216/10112497G:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/160474345.0809:https://www.omegaspeedymoon.com403.041 Yellowjacket:https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/CH080320/240Black 5004G:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/1935062915:https://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steelPisa:https://www.phillips.com/article/121350662/a-lange-and-sohne-datograph-pisa414.028:https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/181134Bao Dai:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/90349https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bảo_ĐạiWMT:https://www.phillips.com/detail/wmt-(watch-experimental-unit)/202955YG Brass Resonance:https://hairspring.com/products/chronometre-a-resonance-brass-movement-platinumYosuke & Dufour:https://www.instagram.com/p/DScn5Qaklh4/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==RRCCII:https://www.acollectedman.com/pages/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-twoLaurent Ferrier Phillips:https://hairspring.com/products/hommage-ii-for-phillips-steel5516:https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/asset/140_carousel03_05v2Only Wrist:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5100-rolex-texanohttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3770-patek-philippe-nautellipse
• Episode 86: 3940 and Onwards, The Patek Philippe ‘Pure’ Perpetual Calendar Pt. 2 29.01.2026 1ชม. 17นาที

  It is finally time to dissect and opine on the 3940. Erik & Max break down series with some nuances you may not expect. This includes hallmarks, Singer vs Stern dials, Series breakdown, and thoughts on what truly matters here. And that’s just the first half of the episode, with the second dedicated to covering the vast majority of all major references since and what to pay attention to. It’s the second half Patek Philippe of the ‘pure’ QP bloodline this week. Links Mentioned: Zeitwerk Press Photo:https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/zeitwerk/zeitwerk-honeygold-lumenTechnical Review of 240 Q:https://www.41watch.com/en/journal/buyers-guides/technical-review-of-the-mythical-240-caliber-from-patek-philippeFirst Series 3940:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/191571Evolution of Just First Series Dials Alone:https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/the-three-dials-of-1st-series-patek-philippe-ref-3940Early Second Series 3941:https://hairspring.com/products/3941j-perpetual-calendar-dore-dial-early-second-series-yellow-goldLate Second Series:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/143107Third Series:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/3940p-perpetual-calendar-third-series-platinumBeyer First Series:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/183202Interesting ‘Syrup’ 24-Hour indicator patina:https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/sales-corner/p/1992-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-3940-platinum-collector-setRoman 3940:https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/3940g-025-roman-dial-change-to-3940g-013-classic--value-impact/11.1590521.15856176/3945 (Soldered Bracelet):https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/215848?fromSearch=3945https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6102706Saatchi History:https://www.phillips.com/article/144079689/patek-philippe-saatchi-edition-london-2015-grand-exhibition-about5039:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5039g-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar5040:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5040p-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar5049P:https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/latest-addition--ref-5049p/11.1467591.13835786/5136:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/1957865139:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/210732?fromSearch=51395050:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/224366?fromSearch=50505059:https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-officers-case-perpetual-calendar-ref-5059g/5140:https://mrwatchley.com/products/patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-5140g5940:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5940g5327:https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5327g-0015320:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5320g-perpetual-calendar-introducing5236:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-ref-5236p-001-in-line-perpetual-calendar-a-first-for-patek-introducingPocket Watch 725:https://thekeystone.com/products/patek-philippe-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar-pocket-watch-725-25740:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5740g-patek-philippe-nautilus-perpetual-calendarOnly Wrist:https://hairspring.com/products/16018-datejust-birch-wood-dial-yellow-goldhttps://hairspring.com/products/1655-explorer-ii-steel
• Episode 85: Hot Takes & Resolutions 17.01.2026 1ชม. 22นาที

  Are regulator dials ugly? Are Lange a credible threat to Patek’s repeaters? What’s the ideal Bond Villain watch? Why do so many watch professionals seem like they don’t even like watches? Erik & Max put out a call to you for your hot takes and controversial opinions. Some were lukewarm, but many were truly controversial and made for excellent discussion. If hot takes aren’t to your taste, this episode concludes with resolutions in watches for the new year. Links Mentioned:Roman Numerals Discussed:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/19019-rolex-oysterquartz-day-date-1https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/HK080423/880https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/brown-guilloche-dial-voutilainen-observatoire-15374:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5374p-patek-philippe-minute-repeater-perpetual-calendarRD2:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-rd2-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-ultra-thin-hands-on5327G:https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5327g-00190s IWC:https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/heres-why-im-so-into-90s-iwc-right History of the Calatrava:https://monochrome-watches.com/history-of-the-patek-philippe-calatrava-part-1-reference-96/Regulator Dial:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/laurent-ferrier-micro-rotor-regulateur-ecole70s Longines:https://www.fratellowatches.com/buying-guide-the-best-longines-watches-from-the-1970s/13ZN:https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/longines-13zn-still-collectible116500:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-daytona-ref-116500ln-reviewOnly Wrist:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/ur-210s-full-metal-jacket-steel-titaniumhttps://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/https://www.hytwatches.com
• Episode 84: A Year in Auctions, with a Market Update 06.01.2026 1ชม. 44นาที

  The year of 2026 is upon us, but it’s worth pausing to look at some of the great and atrocious things which sold. This episode covers a state of the market through a review of the entire year at auctions, noting specific examples. Erik & Max discuss watches that they wish they’d had the funds to buy, opportunities missed, problem watches/things they’d stay away from, value buys, unreasonable results, and our wildcards. Plus, an Only Wrist for the most significant chronographs of all time. Links Mentioned:Watches We Wish We’d Had the Funds to Buy:https://www.phillips.com/detail/heuer/191665https://www.phillips.com/detail/philippe-dufour/226566https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/224005https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-67https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-2/reference-6538-submariner-big-crown-james-bond-ahttps://www.phillips.com/detail/voutilainen/223968https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/lange-1/little-lange-1/little-lange-1-in-750-white-gold-181-038https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-3/reference-2438-1-a-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendarOpportunities We Missed:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6534101https://www.phillips.com/detail/piaget/224987https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-70https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6534094https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/216658https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/213832https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-2/reference-ba-145-022-69-speedmaster-gus-grissom-aProblem Watches:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/216213https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-36/lot-25https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/216432https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-48https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6558481https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6567932https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-part-i-ge2501/reference-6034-a-pink-gold-chronograph-wristwatchhttps://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6567913https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaeger-le-coultre/225242Values:https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/223633https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-7https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/fine-watches-6/reference-3147-carrera-dato-45-a-stainless-steelhttps://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-2/reference-404-032-saxonia-double-split-a-pink-goldhttps://www.phillips.com/detail/breguet/210819Unreasonable Numbers:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/224435https://hairspring.com/products/3941j-perpetual-calendar-dore-dial-early-second-series-yellow-goldhttps://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/224804https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-2/octa-chronograph-ruthenium-a-limited-editionWildcard:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-3/reference-3945-dore-a-yellow-gold-perpetualhttps://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-36/lot-237https://flightbirds.net/publio-magini-the-sistema-magini/ (History of the Magini Trip)https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-2/reference-6100-dragon-an-exquisite-and-rare-yellowOnly Wrist:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/5970r-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-pink-goldhttps://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steelhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/saatchi-5070p-patek-philippe-chronograph
• Episode 83: The Balance Cocks of 2025 21.12.2025 1ชม. 23นาที

  Yes, it’s year end. And the only awards show that anyone cares about is back in action. It’s the Balance Cocks second annual outing this week; this show will cover the most beautiful and ugliest watches of the year, the greatest new calibre, the strongest value, the watch which will lose you the most money after buying it, and far more. Then we have the big ones, our favorites and the ‘Absolute Cock-Up of the Year’ Grand Prizes. Plus, an Only Wrist of an oil rig worker who likes dressing to the nines. Links Mentioned:Most Beautiful Watch Nominations:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-in-so-much-honeygoldhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/mbandfs-special-project-onehttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-greubel-forsey-hand-made-2https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-in-depth-roger-smith-ref-6https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-lange-datograph-handwerkskunstThe Ugliest Watch Nominations:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-speedmaster-moonphase-meteoritehttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tag-heuer-x-fragment-design-glassbox-carrera-is-a-masterclass-in-collaborationhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/dennison-leans-into-peak-70s-glam-and-design-with-new-ald-dual-timehttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-fp-journe-chronometre-furtifhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-audemars-piguet-rd5https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-breguet-type-xx-chronographe-2075bhThe Greatest Calibre Nominations:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/berneron-unveils-details-of-second-collection-the-quantieme-annuelhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-1815-tourbillon-in-platinum-now-with-a-black-grand-feu-enamel-dialhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-petermann-bedat-1825https://www.breguet.com/250/en/experimentale-1/The Greatest Value Nominations:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolexs-new-pastel-oyster-perpetual-dials-a-soothing-evolution-of-colorhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-a-lange-sohne-1815-34mmhttps://baltic-watches.com/en/collections/watcheshttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-omega-speedmaster-first-omega-in-spaceThe Greatest Depreciator Nominations:https://www.patek.com/en/collection/twenty4/7340-1r-010https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-reveals-its-most-complicated-chiming-watch-to-date-with-the-luc-grand-strikehttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-universal-tribute-chronographshttps://watchesbysjx.com/2025/07/seiko-credor-goldfeather-tourbillon-gbcf999.htmlWorst Ad of 2025 Nominations:https://imgur.com/a/yteGrrI (Phillips Horse Thing)https://imgur.com/a/pD9Prfa (Urban Jurgensen)New Independent Entrant Nominations:https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/12/latelier-bernard-owl-duplex.htmlBrand That Evolved Most Nominations:https://www.berneron.chThe Absolute Cock-Up Nominations:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-audemars-piguet-rd5https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-rolex-land-dwellerhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-universal-tribute-chronographsGrand Prize Nominations:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-in-so-much-honeygoldhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-brings-back-the-lange-1-daymatic-with-a-honeygold-touchOnly Wrist:https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/87538https://www.europeanwatch.com/watch/audemars-piguet-vzss-vintage-dress-watch-vzss-rare-18k-yg-manual-62560https://mimandcroket.com/project/rare-audemars-piguet-cal-13vzss/https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/honeycomb-dial-6350-rolex-explorerhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1-of-26-london-racing-green-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-1931
• Episode 82: Q&A (Pt. 7) 09.12.2025 1ชม. 11นาที

  Erik & Max are back to answer your wide-ranging questions in the seventh installment of what is becoming a cornerstone of the podcast. Questions range from a new ‘holy trinity’ we’d select, what neo-vintage references collectors should be paying attention to yet aren’t, Langes on a budget, best Blümlein IWCs, our favored Cartier shapes, and far more. Links Mentioned:Hajime Asaoka:https://www.phillips.com/detail/hajime-asaoka/194815Atelier Du Chronometrie:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/just-because-atelier-de-chronometrie-adc17Yosuke Sekiguchi:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/yosuke-sekiguchi-primvereFrodsham:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/charles-frodsham-double-impulse-chronometer-2Smith:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/open-dial-roger-w-smith-series-2Stephen McDonnell’s Talk:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1xQWripjPI130:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tiffany-dial-patek-philippe-130-chronographDato QP:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-datograph-guide/datograph-perpetual/Dato QP Tourbillon:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/740-036-a-lange-sohne-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon5960:https://watchesbysjx.com/2014/12/up-close-with-the-patek-philippe-ref-59601a-chronograph-annual-calendar-in-steel.html25668PT:https://hairspring.com/products/25668pt-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum43032:https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum25636 RO:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/25636ba-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-skeleton25657 MoP:https://hairspring.com/products/25657or-quantieme-perpetuel-mother-of-pearl-dial-pink-goldMercator:https://www.phillips.com/article/135703213/vacheron-constantin-mercator-history-guide25881:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-7/repetition-minutes-john-schaeffer-reference-2588147100:https://hairspring.com/products/47100-chronograph-skeleton-platinum14802ST:https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/14802-royal-oak-jubileeEngraved Enamel Primer (We’ll Try To Do One Soon):https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/engraved-enamel-why-some-dials-never2526 Dial Manufacture:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-2526-enamel-dial-donze-cadransBudget Lange:https://mrwatchley.com/products/a-lange-sohne-saxonia-yellow-gold-102-0011815 Up/Down (Gangreserve, not Gangenreserve, Erik Misspoke):https://hairspring.com/products/221-027-1815-up-down-first-generation-white-goldJust The Greatest Annual Calendar:https://hairspring.com/products/330-039-saxonia-annual-calendar-u-s-boutique-white-gold4-Digit to Swim:https://hairspring.com/products/5512-submariner-gilt-dial-steelBlumlein IWC:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/bundeswehr-3501-iwc-porsche-design-ocean-2000https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3508-iwc-ingenieur-500k-a-mhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5240-iwc-portuguese-minute-repeaterGPHG:https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/how-fair-is-the-gphg-a-closer-look-at-the-oscars-of-watchmakingFont:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/highly-tropical-longines-legend-diver-7150https://hairspring.com/products/3970ep-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum_42658Parmigiani 2840:https://hairspring.com/products/2840-toric-tourbillon-platinum3670A:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/2094293651J:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6235789Voutilainen Zenith:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/zenith-x-voutilainen-x-phillips-calibre-135-oCartier:https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/207628https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/tortue-monopoussoir-prive-platinumhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2610e-cartier-cpcp-tortue-minute-repeaterOnly Wrist:https://collectability.com/learn/collectability-in-depth-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-ref-3940/https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/royal-oak-25686
• Episode 81: The Patek Philippe ‘Pure’ Perpetual Calendar (Beginnings until 3940) 25.11.2025 1ชม.

  A monumental occasion, this episode covers a complete chronology of the Patek Philippe ‘pure’ perpetual calendar. Arguably, the QP was the complication that built the Patek Philippe name more than any other through the mid-century. Yet, the main bloodline of QP has many nuances that aren’t often covered. This episode highlights all the main references you might expect and their significant points such as 1526, 2497/2438, 3448, and 3450. But if you’ve ever wondered about the 96 QP, 1527, 1591, 3449, or any of the oddball piece uniques, they’re all in here too. We couldn’t wait for leap year to release this, hopefully you’ll forgive us. 3940 and on will be in an upcoming part two. Links Mentioned:Thomas Mudge Perpetual Calendar:https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/john-harrison-enduring-discovery-l16055/lot.28.html97975:https://revolutionwatch.com/1925-patek-97975-the-worlds-first-perpetual-calendar-wristwatch/96 QP:https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/patek-philippe-ref-ref-96-lot-31-79Imperial 96 Calendar:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-rare-complicated-patek-calatrava-you-might-not-have-known-about-is-coming-up-for-auction1526:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/casa-masson-dial-1526-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-pink-goldCoca Cola Watch:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-owned-by-the-founder-of-coca-cola-and-other-ultra-cool-pateks-now-on-exhibit-at-tBriggs Cunningham Steel:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5065258Magnifying Glass:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/casa-masson-dial-1526-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-pink-goldCasemaker Keys:https://collectability.com/learn/the-key-to-master-case-makers-for-patek-philippe/1527:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5309213https://www.ablogtowatch.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/Patek-Philippe-Rare-1527-Perpetual-Calendar-18k-Rose-Gold.jpg1591:https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-1591-first-waterproof-perpetual-calendar/https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-patek-philippe-an-extremely-important-and-unique-4982796/?2497 & 2438:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497-part-1https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497-part-22438:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/913273449:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-54934183448:https://revolutionwatch.com/padellone-patek-philippes-most-elegant-perpetual-calendar-the-3448/Senza Luna:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-reference-3448-senza-luna-in-depthUnique 3448:https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2008/important-watches-ge0804/lot.214.html3450:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/180883Only Watch:570G:https://hairspring.com/products/570g-calatrava-white-gold565 Crown:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/2139802526:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/first-series-2526-patek-philippe-calatrava5040:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5040p-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar
• Episode 80: Tom Segura 19.11.2025 56นาที

  Master comedian and legendary podcaster Tom Segura joins Erik & Max for a hilarious conversation on his love of watches and collecting. Tom’s enthusiasm ranges from FP Journe to 6263 Daytona, with more than his fair share of AD experiences on tour. Today we ask who was the most obnoxious sales staff he’s encountered yet, where his love of Lange came from, views on collecting philosophy, and what watches should be paired with various vehicles Tom has loved or hated. Plus, the 3 guest questions you all tune in for. This was a blast to record, a special thanks to Tom & crew. Tom Segura:https://www.instagram.com/seguratom/Links Mentioned:The Garth Brooks Saga:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOybgckmwZUThe JRE In Question:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hX5QV_q4iAMRichard Lange Jumping Seconds:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-richard-lange/richard-lange-jumping-seconds/John Mayer Royal Oak:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-john-mayer-audemars-piguet-royal-oakTuscan QP:https://hairspring.com/products/25820pt-tuscan-dial-royal-oak-quantieme-perpetuel-platinumEastern Arabic Day-Date:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/eastern-arabic-dial-1806-rolex-day-dateRessence:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-ressence-type-5Trilobe:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/review-trilobe-une-folle-journeeGarrick:https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-garrick-s3-mk2-openworked-independent-watchmaking-calibre-ut-g04-price-specs/RM66:https://www.richardmille.com/collections/rm-66-flying-tourbillonChronometre Optimum:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-the-fp-journe-chronometre-optimumUN Freak:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-ulysse-nardin-freak-s-nomadPN:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/221654570:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/2190631463:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/204543SBGA211:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-spring-drive-snowflake-reviewLinesport Centigraphe:https://www.fpjourne.com/en/collection/linesport-collection/centigraphe5470P:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-ref-5470p-001-110th-second-monopusher-chronograph-is-a-fast-beat-first6263:https://hairspring.com/products/6263-daytona-tropical-dial-steelTourbillon Souverain:https://www.fpjourne.com/en/collection/classique-collection/tourbillon-souverainOnly Wrist:https://hairspring.com/products/chronometre-souverain-havana-pink-goldhttps://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/ur-100v-p-02-titanium-steelhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/seven-new-patek-philippe-aquanaut-and-aquanaut-luce-models
• Episode 79: 5 Watches from the Last 5 Years That Will Age Like Wine & 5 Watches from the Last 5 Years That Will Age Like Milk 09.11.2025 1ชม. 5นาที

  This is a simple concept, but what’s recent that holds a fair shot of standing the test of time? And what are the absolute dogs that should be avoided? Both categories are addressed no holds barred, a fairly random smattering of watches that may be future classics, and just as many that, well, we’d best avoid. And yes, we’re probably wrong. Links Mentioned:Berneron:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/mirage-38-sienna-yellow-goldLimited Odysseus Refs:Titanium:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/lange-odysseus-titanium-review-2022Odysseus Chronograph:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-chrongraphOdysseus Honeygold:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-in-so-much-honeygoldChopard LUC Quattro Mark IV:https://monochrome-watches.com/first-look-chopard-l-u-c-luc-quattro-mark-iv-mkiv-ice-blue-platinum-micro-rotor-qualite-fleurier-specs-price-live-pics/1860 (Tangentially Discussed):https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/luc-1860-steel6196P:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-6196p-the-best-calatrava-in-a-generationSimon Brette:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-simon-brette-chronometre-aristans-roseRRCC2:https://www.acollectedman.com/pages/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-twoWith Gems:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-rexhep-rexhepi-cc2-rubySequential Chronograph:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-mbf-lm-sequential-flyback2941:https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.htmlJLC Reverso Tribute:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-tribute-chronograph-2Tamara Ralph:https://revolutionwatch.com/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-concept-flying-tourbillon-tamara-ralph/Aquanaut Annual:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/three-new-patek-philippe-aquanauts-including-a-flyback-chronograph-and-aquanaut-luce-both-in-rose-goFP Journe Quantième Perpétuel:https://www.europeanwatch.com/blog/f-p-journe-quantieme-perpetuel-boutique-edition-reviewLange Repeater QP:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-minute-repeater-perpetual-live-pictures-thoughts-and-comparisonsCalatrava Pilots:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5524g-calatrava-pilot-travel-timehttps://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5520rg-001https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-5522a-limited-edition-pilots-calatravaNSO:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breaking-news-cartier-nso-programLand-Dweller:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-rolex-land-dwellerGlassbox Carrera:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tag-heuer-carrera-glassbox-39mm-its-time-to-care-about-the-carrera-againOnly Wrist:https://www.onthedash.com/chronograph/autavia-1163t-siffert-chronomatic/https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5040g-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar