The SJX Podcast

Episodes

• Ep. 42 - Inside Roventa-Henex 01.06.2026 25m

  Jérôme Biard is good at keeping secrets. As chief executive of Roventa-Henex — a leading white label maker of Swiss watches — he needs to be. For episode 42 of the SJX Podcast, we visited Mr Biard at the company's secretive manufacture in the sleepy Swiss village of Tavannes.The discussion covers the emergence of the 'micro-brand' (including whether that term is still relevant), the factors facing the Swiss watch industry today, the role suppliers play in shaping trends, and what it takes to start a watch company. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
• Ep. 41 - A Diamond in the Rough? 17.05.2026 13m

  Tiffany & Co. is one of the only major jewellers without a significant watchmaking programme. Episode 41 of the SJX Podcast examines the brand's past, present, and future under the leadership of Nicolas Beau, who is credited with building Chanel's watch business into what it is today.When it comes to watches, Tiffany & Co. is potentially a diamond in the rough — it's a uniquely American luxury brand with enviable cultural recognition. The brand also has a global boutique network giving it immediate access to all major markets, which could accelerate its trajectory with the right product mix. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
• Ep. 40 - Rexhep Rexhepi's Vision 11.05.2026 22m

  For the 40th episode of the SJX Podcast, we sat down with Rexhep Rexhepi in Geneva to learn more about his latest watch — the RRCHF Chronograph Flyback. Rexhep explains why he wanted to make a chronograph, and how the self-imposed constraint of a symmetrical layout resulted in a more refined overall construction.He also discusses the RRCHF's in-house escapement, and the trade-offs that were considered in its development. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
• Ep. 39 - Geneva Auction Preview 05.05.2026 13m

  The spring auction seasons gets underway in Geneva in just a few days. On episode 39 of the SJX Podcast, we look at some of the top lots that caught our attention at Phillips, Christie's Sotheby's, and Antiquorum.Auction dates (in order):Phillips: May 9 & 10Antiquorum: May 9 & 10Sotheby's: May 10Christie's: May 11 & 12Show notes:1:00: Patek Philippe Worldtime ref. 25231:20: Akrivia AK-061:45: Charles Frodsham pocket watch for J.P. Morgan partner Thomas Lamont2:55: Victor Kullberg tourbillon pocket watch3:25: Paul Ditisheim tourbillon pocket watch4:45: Patek Philippe dual time pocket watch with Turkish dial5:53: Audemars Piguet single-button chronograph wristwatch7:15: School watch from Geneva Watchmaking School7:47: Patek Philippe ref. 425 for Asprey8:55: Audemars Piguet observatory dial9:05: Rolex Submariner white gold prototype10:20: Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700 diamond-set11:30: A. Lange & Söhne grand complication pocket watch Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
• Ep. 38 - Independent Highlights from Geneva 04.05.2026 17m

  During Watches & Wonders, all eyes are usually on the major brands exhibiting inside the cavernous Palexpo. Episode 38 of the SJX Podcast rounds up the highlights from the smaller fairs like Time to Watches, and the independents exhibiting on their own around town.Among the standouts were Mathieu Cleguer, who debuted a novel escapement of his own design, Dominique Renaud who launched a high-amplitude 1 Hz balance, and Franc Vila, who seems to be entering a new era of creativity.Show notes:1:12: Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Mystery2:45: Anton Suhanov Flamingo4:20: Dominique Renaud Pulse 607:20: Cleguer Horology Inspiration One9:15: Niton Prima12:00: Franc Vila FVF2 14:30: Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon15:00: Marco Lang Seven Spheres Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
• Ep. 37 - Watches & Wonders 2026 Recap 01.05.2026 30m

  Episode 37 of the SJX Podcast recaps the biggest releases from the brands officially exhibiting at Watches & Wonders 2026. Highlights from the independent brands exhibiting around town will be covered in our next episode.Show notes:0:55: Rolex Daytona Rolesium Enamel Dial ref. 1265023:15: Rolex Yacht-Master II5:00: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 'Jubilee' Dial8:30: Patek Philippe Celestial ref. 6105G12:00: Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5610P 50th Anniversary12:30: Patek Philippe Automaton ref. 524913:30: Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar "Lumen"14:50: Lange Saxonia Annual Calendar15:50: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin ref. 2500V16:50: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual-Time Cardinal Points19:11: Tudor Black Bay Ceramic19:40: Tudor Monarch21:00: TAG Heuer Evergraph25:00: Cartier Crash Platinum26:20: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver SLGB025 and SLGB02328:00: Ressence Type 1129:30: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
• Ep. 36 - Day 1 of Watches & Wonders: Rolex Marks Oyster Centennary 14.04.2026 8m

  Episode 36 of the SJX Podcast comes straight from Watches & Wonders 2026. As ever, all eyes are focused on Rolex during the first hour of the event. SJX and Brandon unpack the brand's new models, which feature new materials and a novel industrial approach to enamel dial production.We'll be back soon with more live coverage of the industry's biggest event. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
• Ep. 35 - A New Era for Independent Watchmaking 09.04.2026 20m

  It's been a promising year for independent watchmaking, and Watches & Wonders hasn't even taken place yet. On episode 35 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss Rexhep Rexhepi's first in-house chronograph bearing his own name. What Mr Rexhepi does, others often imitate, so it's worth thinking about how the launch of this traditional-yet-novel chronograph will shape the future of the category.The conversation also turns to Ressence, which has just unveiled its own in-house movement, and has done so at a fair price. Russian AHCI-member Anton Suhanov also joins the ranks of indies with their own calibres, installing a 15+ mm luminous balance wheel in his third wristwatch. And that's not the only Russian watch boasting unusual specs — Konstantin Chaykin revealed the series production version of his ThinKing, the thinnest watch ever at just 1.65 mm thick, complete with double 'mystery' displays.New names also made their debuts recently, including Stéphane Pierre and Mathieu Cleguer, who has come up with a novel double-wheel escapement of his own design. These makers are illustrative of a broader trend in independent watchmaking, namely the engineer-led brand. Show notes:00:20: Rexhep Rexhepi RRCHF06:45: Raymond Weil Millesime “The Fifty”07:20: Ressence Type 1110:00: Anton Suhanov Flamingo15:00: Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Mystery16:30: Cleguer Inspiration One18:00: Stéphane Pierre L’Impétrant Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
• Ep. 34 - Understanding Collector Psychology 03.04.2026 31m

  Why do watch debates get so heated, so fast — and why does no one ever change their mind? On episode 34 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon sits down with King Flum, collector and author of the ScrewDownCrown Substack, to dig into the psychology behind the arguments that define online watch communities.Drawing on research from psychologists including Jonathan Haidt and Dan Kahan, the conversation covers why our preferences form before we start thinking, why smarter collectors tend to construct more elaborate — not more objective — arguments, and why an attack on your watch can feel like an attack on you personally.Read more here: https://www.screwdowncrown.com/p/your-brain-is-a-defence-lawyer-watch-forum-psychology Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
• Ep. 33 - Affordable New Releases 19.03.2026 20m

  Seiko is on something of a resurgence, aiming to take back its reputation as a value leader after the emergence, over the past decade, of increasingly competitive micro-brands. On episode 33 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss the King Seiko Vanac, now available in titanium, and the Marinemaster, which has been transformed through a number of incremental upgrades. The discussion then turns to some other affordable new releases from Orient Star, Raketa, and Christopher Ward, which just launched an in-house 'flyer' GMT calibre with a five-day power reserve.Show notes:00:35: King Seiko Vanac Titanium3:30: Seiko Marinemaster8:00: Orient Star M4511:10: Raketa Baikonur12:20: Christopher Ward Sealander True GMT Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
• Ep. 32 - Watches & Wonders Wish List 18.03.2026 11m

  Watches & Wonders is less than a month away, so for episode 32 of the SJX Podcast we're talking about what we'd want to see from some of the major brands like Patek Philippe, Grand Seiko, and Tudor. It's always difficult to make predictions, and the best releases from every year are usually a surprise, but Andrew put together a few picks that we believe would be crowd-pleasers, were they to be made.SJX and Brandon also discuss the latest minute repeater from Girard-Perregaux, and SJX's own collaboration with Habring²: the Chrono-Felix Medicus chronograph.Show notes:1:00: Patek Philippe3:00: Grand Seiko4:20: Tudor7:30: Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Flying Bridges11:30: Habring² x SJX Chrono-Felix Medicus Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
• Ep. 31 - State of the Industry 2026 13.03.2026 21m

  Episode 31 of the SJX Podcast digs into two major industry reports — one from Vontobel on the primary market and one from EveryWatch on the secondary — and what they reveal about where value is concentrating in the watch industry. SJX and Brandon discuss the K-shaped nature of the market, the dominance of F.P. Journe among independents, and Cartier's remarkable ability to sell across every price tier. The discussion also touches on the role of emotion in driving purchase decisions, the financialisation of the hobby, and why market reports have limited utility for collectors.Show notes:00:30: K-shaped market dynamics — Vontobel and EveryWatch reports3:00: F.P. Journe dominance among independents4:00: Cartier's unique market position10:00: Emotion vs. financialisation14:00: Marteau & Co.16:00: Phillips Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
• Ep. 30 - Jumping on Trends 23.02.2026 15m

  On episode 30 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss to what extent the latest crop of jump hour watches constitutes a trend. In just the first six weeks of 2026, several new jump hour models have been released, including a new collection from Audemars Piguet and the relaunch of the Niton brand, which is discussed in detail. Even the Louis Vuitton Convergence also fits into this trend aesthetically, despite being a dragging hours construction. SJX also provides context on the leading jump hour watches in the industry and shares views on whether reliability still matters in today's market. Show notes:1:30: Niton Prima5:30: Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence8:45: Berneron Quantième Annuel11:30: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk12:10: Lange Zeitwerk, F.P. Journe Vagabondage III, and Harry Winston Opus 313:10: How important is reliability? Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
• Ep. 29 - Louis Vuitton & De Bethune Travel in Style 18.02.2026 20m

  SJX has just returned from the Tokyo launch of Louis Vuitton's third independent watchmaking collaboration, this time with De Bethune. Episode 29 of the SJX Podcast covers what it means for both brands, and unpacks the details of both the GMT Louis Varius wristwatch and the monumental Sympathique clock that it can be paired with.Brandon and SJX also provide hands-on analysis of the Escale Worldtime and Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton that debuted during LVMH Watch Week in January.Show notes:00:30: Louis Varius Sympathique Clock12:30: Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime14:40: Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime Flying Tourbillon15:30: Louis Vuitton Escale Twin Zone17:30: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
• Ep. 28 - Audemars Piguet: Beyond the Royal Oak 14.02.2026 22m

  Recorded shortly after Brandon's return from Audemars Piguet's launch event in Switzerland, Episode 28 of the SJX Podcast provides analysis of all the brand's new releases, including the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, the 150 Heritage grand complication pocket watch, the upgraded Royal Oak Chronograph and its new in-house movement, and the latest open-worked perpetual calendar, which works equally well in Code 11.59 and Royal Oak guise.The conversation also touches on the internal reorganisation at AP that saw the creation of a multi-disciplinary fabrication laboratory dubbed the 'Fab Lab.' Show notes:00:30: Neo Frame Jumping Hour6:15: 150 Heritage pocket watch12:45: Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm18:25: Royal Oak and Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar21:05: AP’s Fab Lab Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
• Ep. 27 - Perfectly Impractical 25.01.2026 16m

  Episode 27 of the SJX Podcast opens the archives to find the most impractical and illegible watches that somehow still manage to be worthwhile despite the triumph of form over function. It's a difficult formula to get right, and the landscape of fine watchmaking is littered with examples of watches that sacrificed too much at the altar of fashion. But those that strike the right balance are especially memorable.SJX and Brandon also discuss a couple of emerging independents from as far afield as Japan and Finland.Show notes:01:00: Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime Time Pyramid (2014)2:45: Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Planétarium7:30: Patek Philippe 5330G Tokyo Edition11:00: New Indies: Nouvelle Chronometrie14:00: New Indies: Kortela Valta Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
• Ep. 26 - Best of LVMH Watch Week 19.01.2026 17m

  Episode 26 of the SJX Podcast breaks down the best releases from LVMH Watch Week, which saw the return of the hand-painted Escale Worldtime. The slate of releases also includes a surprising new men's watch from Tiffany & Co powered by the Zenith El Primero, and the first all-new model from the modern era of Daniel Roth. Things are looking up for TAG Heuer as well, which launched a regular production version of the Seafarer with vintage-leaning 'Intrepid Teal' accents, and a new top-of-the-line Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph that has more in common with the likes of Richard Mille than the rest of the Carrera line-up.Show notes:00:30: Tiffany Timer3:00: Escale Worldtime3:45: Escale Twin Zone4:00: Escale Minute Repeater5:00: Tambour Convergence Guilloche11:15: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton13:45: TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer15:15: TAG Heuer Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
• Ep. 25 - Indie Investments and Odysseus Face-Off 16.01.2026 17m

  The SJX Podcast kicks off 2026 with an analysis of the latest industry news, including Chanel's 30% stake in Kross Manufacture and Vacheron Constantin's initiative to apply the concours format to watches. We also discuss the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus in Honeygold ahead of an upcoming review, and compare its merits with its titanium sibling.Show notes:1:00 - Chanel invests in Kross Manufacture07:30 - Vacheron Constantin Concours d’Élégance Horlogère13:00 - Head to head: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold vs titanium Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
• Ep. 24 - Best of 2025: Surprises and Unexpected Developments 31.12.2025 19m

  Episode 24 of the SJX Podcast covers the surprises and unexpected developments of 2025, a year marked by significant material innovation and bold statements from established brands. In this final episode of the year, SJX and Brandon discuss Rolex's landmark Land-Dweller with its revolutionary Dynapulse escapement, Breguet's experimental magnetic constant-force mechanism that achieved unprecedented precision, and TAG Heuer's industrialization of carbon hairsprings. Vacheron Constantin also surprised with an extraordinary 150 kg astronomical clock created for its 270th anniversary, temporarily displayed at the Louvre alongside a companion wristwatch.Thank you to all our listeners for joining us throughout 2025 - happy new year!Show notes:00:35 - Rolex Land-Dweller and Dynapulse Escapement05:45 - Breguet Expérimentale 1 10:30 - Vacheron Constantin La Quête Du Temps 15:00 - TAG Heuer Carbon Hairspring Industrialisation Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
• Ep. 23 - Best of 2025: Value Propositions Under US$10,000 29.12.2025 13m

  Episode 23 of the SJX Podcast looks at value propositions under US$10,000 in 2025, a mixed year for affordable watches. While Tudor continued to refine its sports watch formula with the well-received Ranger 36, several micro-brands made compelling cases for themselves with distinctive designs and upgraded movements. The team highlights releases from Christopher Ward, Albishorn, and Kollokium that demonstrated there's still room for creativity and innovation at accessible price points, even as some established players moved upmarket. We also discuss the Grand Seiko UFA, which is just outside the range but might be worth it.Show notes:00:45 - Tudor Ranger 363:15 - Christopher Ward C12 Loco 7:15 - Albishorn Thundergraph10:15 - Kollokium Projekt 0212:45 - Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA Ref. SLGB003 Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.