The Climbing Doctor Podcast

Episodes

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  Neuromuscular Re-Education of the Finger Flexors - Isabella Castro 20.10.2026 33m

  Isabella Castro discusses neuromuscular re-education of the fingers, a method that leverages neuroplasticity to improve grip and finger control in climbers. She shares practical assessment techniques, exercises, and how this approach can prevent injuries and enhance climbing performance. Isabella Castro's Bio Isabella Castro is a third-year Doctor of Physical Therapy student at the University of Southern California. Originally from El Paso, Texas, Bella's interest in physical therapy grew from rock climbing at Hueco Tanks and seeing different injuries and analyzing movement. Through climbing, she developed a strong interest in injury prevention and rehabilitation, which has transferred to care across a variety of populations. During her time at USC, Bella has gained clinical experience in outpatient orthopedics, pediatrics, and acute inpatient care. Through her education, she hopes to use her knowledge of physical therapy to serve her community and help people stay active in the activities that are meaningful to them. She has a particular interest in working with climbers and hopes to incorporate climbing rehabilitation and performance into her future practice. Outside of physical therapy, Bella enjoys climbing, figure skating, cycling, and spending time outdoors. Chapters 00:00 Introduction to neuromuscular re-education in climbing 02:03 What is neuromuscular re-education and why it matters 03:07 Training the fingers for climbing: beyond strength 04:01 Assessing neuromuscular deficiencies in climbers 05:57 Identifying grip issues and finger control problems 07:54 Range of motion and muscular control tests 09:24 Proprioception and joint position sense testing 12:14 Self-measuring finger control and proprioception 15:48 Framework for training: the rock rehab pyramid 16:35 Stretching, mobilization, and activation exercises 21:26 Transferring finger control to climbing with deadpoint drills 23:24 Using assisted hangs for neuromuscular training 25:31 Case study: before and after finger re-education 29:06 Final thoughts on neuromuscular control and injury prevention Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools The Resilient Climber Book / Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts Injury Rehab Coures The Resilient Climber Course / Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  Pelvic Health Considerations for Climbers - Sam Lemminger 20.08.2026 37m

  In this episode, Sam Lemminger, a physical therapist specializing in pelvic floor health, discusses the importance of pelvic floor awareness for climbers and everyone interested in body performance. She explains how understanding and connecting with this often-overlooked area can improve climbing performance and overall well-being. Sam Lemminger's Bio Sam Lemminger is a Fort Collins, CO-based physical therapist specializing in treating orthopedic injuries and pelvic health. Sam has additional training in internal pelvic floor assessment and treatment, dry needling, manual therapy, and rehabilitation of rock climbers and CrossFit athletes. Her goals as a physical therapist include helping people of all ability levels optimize their health and fitness and reduce pain to feel their best while pursuing their passions. In addition to clinical care, she is a teaching assistant with the Spine Management division of the Institute of Clinical Excellence. When away from the clinic, Sam loves being active through hiking, CrossFit, climbing, running, or snowboarding. When it's time to slow down, you can find her baking bread and pastries! Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Pelvic Floor and Climbing 02:40 Understanding the Pelvic Floor 05:22 The Importance of Pelvic Floor in Performance 08:04 Common Issues and Misconceptions 10:52 Assessing Pelvic Floor Health 13:25 Symptoms of Pelvic Floor Dysfunction 16:12 Treatment and Management Strategies 19:34 Understanding Pelvic Floor Dysfunction 21:21 Stages of Treatment for Pelvic Floor Dysfunction 23:10 Initial Assessment and Treatment Session 26:53 Active Engagement of Pelvic Floor and Core 30:20 Progressing Beyond Initial Treatment 33:37 The Importance of Nutrition and Recovery Links and Resources for This Episode: 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools The Resilient Climber Book / Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts Injury Rehab Coures The Resilient Climber Course / Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  Overcoming Fear and Pain in Climbing - Riley Hess 20.06.2026 31m

  This episode explores the complex relationship between pain, fear, and climbing injuries, featuring Riley Hess, a PT student with personal climbing injury experience. Discover how pain science, central sensitization, and psychological strategies like graded exposure and expectancy violation can help climbers overcome persistent pain and rebuild confidence. Riley Hess's Bio Riley Hess is a recent Doctor of Physical Therapy graduate from MCPHS University who will begin her career working in the acute care setting following licensure. Her passion for movement began outside of the classroom through climbing, where a love for both performance and community sparked an interest in human movement and rehabilitation. Since starting climbing in 2019, Riley has worked in the climbing industry through coaching and has expanded into providing educational talks focused on pain management and injury prevention. Outside of the clinic, Riley enjoys volunteering as a ski patroller and spending as much time in the outdoors as possible. Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Overcoming Fear and Pain in Climbing 02:40 Understanding Pain and Its Nuances 05:22 Personal Experiences with Injury and Pain 06:56 Exploring Central Sensitization 08:24 Pain Management Strategies for Climbers 12:02 Graded Exposure and Expectancy Violation Techniques 16:03 The Role of Fear in Climbing and Recovery 21:06 Final Thoughts on Pain Management and Recovery Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  The Climbers Guide to Pull-ups - Marie-Eve Joanisse 23.04.2026 33m

  In this conversation, Marie-Eve Joanisse discusses the significance of pull-ups for climbers, exploring their biomechanics, variations, and injury prevention strategies. She emphasizes the importance of proper technique, the role of different muscle groups, and how to tailor training to individual needs. The discussion also covers common injuries associated with pull-ups and offers insights into effective training techniques and progressions for climbers of all levels. Marie-Eve Joanisse's Bio Marie-Eve is a physiotherapist based in the Montreal area, in Canada. Being a climber herself for many years, she has been involved at different levels in the climbing community, such as by volunteering in local competitions and working at her university's climbing facility during her studies. Recently graduated, Marie-Eve has begun dedicating part of her clinical practice to climbers at a local gym, and is working hard to expand her knowledge in this field. She now also acts as a sports first responder at climbing competitions. Outside of her clinical work, she enjoys climbing, snowboarding and doing virtually any outdoor sports. Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Pull-Ups and Their Importance 02:05 Understanding Pull-Up Biomechanics 09:00 Injury Insights and Prevention Strategies 15:06 Exploring Different Pull-Up Variations 23:57 Training Techniques and Progressions 30:56 Final Thoughts and Key Takeaways Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  Shoulder Hypermobility - Stephen Kiraly 20.02.2026 30m

  In this conversation, The Climbing Doctor interviews Stephen Kiraly, a physical therapy student, about shoulder hypermobility, particularly in climbers. They discuss what shoulder hypermobility is, how to assess it, its benefits and drawbacks, and rehabilitation strategies. The conversation emphasizes the importance of education for climbers regarding their shoulder health and provides practical tips for managing hypermobility through exercises and movement techniques. Stephen Kiraly's Bio Stephen Kiraly is a third-year Student Physical Therapist at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas. Ever since he finally gave in to his friends bugging him to climb, he has not looked back, and climbing has become a central part of his life. Through climbing, he has had amazing experiences and met even more amazing individuals. Outside of climbing, he enjoys trail running, backpacking, biking, soccer, and basically anything outdoors. He is currently interested in staying in the climbing PT world upon graduation in May 2026. Reach out to Stephen at [email protected] or on Instagram @zoliclimbs if you'd like to connect about climbing, rehab, or life as a future climbing-focused PT. Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Shoulder Hypermobility 01:33 Understanding Shoulder Hypermobility 05:21 Assessing Shoulder Hypermobility 10:27 Benefits and Drawbacks of Hypermobility 13:21 Rehabilitation Strategies for Hypermobility 24:12 Movement Techniques for Climbers 27:38 Takeaways and Final Thoughts Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  Youth Climbing Fitness Testing - Jac Brown 01.11.2025 42m

  In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Jack Brown discuss the necessity of developing a climbing-specific fitness battery for youth climbers. They explore the metabolic and biomechanical demands of climbing, the importance of assessing injury resilience, and the components of a comprehensive fitness assessment. The discussion includes a detailed breakdown of a two-day testing schedule, focusing on strength, power, and climbing-specific movements, while emphasizing the importance of strength training in preventing injuries and enhancing performance. Jac Brown's Bio Jac Brown is a physical therapist and avid climber, blending a passion for movement with a commitment to helping others stay active. After earning a Doctor of Physical Therapy degree from Saint Joseph's University in Philadelphia, Jac moved to New England, where she began working with youth climbers and supporting local youth climbing teams as a clinical resource. When not on the wall, Jac can be found juggling or geocaching around her neighborhood. Reach out at [email protected] or via Instagram @dr.jac_dpt if you'd like to chat about injury prevention, rehab, or strength training for climbing Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Climbing-Specific Fitness   03:08 The Need for a Fitness Battery in Youth Climbing   06:00 Understanding Energy Demands in Climbing   08:58 Assessing Biomechanical and Injury Risks   12:00 Components of a Climbing Fitness Assessment   15:12 Importance of Strength Training for Resilience   18:12 Designing a Standardized Testing Protocol   21:04 Day One: Flexibility and Strength Testing   23:52 Day Two: Climbing-Specific Movement Assessment   26:57 Final Thoughts and Future Directions Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  Optimizing Motor Control and Motor Learning in Climbing - Joe Manoles 01.09.2025 48m

  In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Joe Manoles discuss the concepts of motor learning and motor control, particularly in the context of climbing. They explore key terminology, the stages of motor learning, and practical applications for climbers. The discussion also delves into personal challenges faced by climbers, types of practice and feedback, and the importance of understanding individual learning styles. The conversation emphasizes the significance of feedback mechanisms and learning strategies in improving climbing performance. Joe Manoles's Bio Dr. Joe Manoles PT, DPT is a healthcare professional in Bend, Oregon specializing in the treatment, recovery, and performance of climbers and mountain athletes. His care is characterized by his compassion, attention to detail, and dedication to holistic care. He believes strongly in the core pillars of health as a need for all human beings and their direct influence on our experience on Earth. In order to understand the complexity of health systems, Joe received a B.S in Biochemistry and Molecular Biology with a minor in Microbiology. He continued his education at Oregon State University-Cascades receiving his Doctorate of Physical Therapy and has sought out continuing educational mentorship and coursework through a variety of trusted resources in the climbing community including The Climbing Doctor, The Climb Clinic, and Camp 4 Human Performance. These days, if he isn't working on his new business Dissonance Performance and Physical Therapy, he is spending time with his spouse Taylor Manoles and their 4 year-old border collie Finn, climbing, snowboarding, and exploring the breathtaking beauty of central Oregon. Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Motor Learning and Control   02:54 Understanding Key Terminology   06:00 Stages of Motor Learning in Climbing   08:45 Applying Motor Learning to Climbing Techniques   12:06 Overcoming Challenges in Climbing Skills   14:58 Types of Practice and Feedback in Climbing   18:02 The Role of Feedback in Skill Development   21:09 Conclusion and Summary of Key Concepts   24:41 Exploring Climbing Preferences and Techniques   27:03 The Learning Process in Climbing   30:13 Feedback Mechanisms in Climbing   35:03 Error-Driven vs. Errorless Learning   39:23 Guided vs. Discovery Learning   40:38 Understanding Bandwidth in Feedback   42:13 Final Thoughts on Motor Learning in Climbing Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  Energy System Training - Steve Smith 01.07.2025 1h 8m

  In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve Smith go over the complexities of energy system training for climbers, particularly focusing on how to effectively train with limited resources. They discuss the importance of understanding muscle contractions, the various energy systems involved in climbing, and practical training protocols that can be implemented off the wall. The conversation emphasizes the need for a personalized approach to training, including a needs analysis to determine the most effective training components for individual climbers. The episode concludes with key takeaways on how to optimize climbing fitness while minimizing the risk of injury. Steve Smith's Bio Steve Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, who is a board certified specialist in Orthopaedic Physical Therapy, and Strength & Conditioning. He has been climbing since 2006, and has a particular interest in specialized sport training and rehabilitation, using science and evidence-based practice to improve performance and return patients to their highest level of athletic abilities. Steve works in an academic Orthopedic and Sports Medicine setting and, in his free time, acts as a training and injury risk reduction consultant to local competitive and recreational climbers. He currently lives in Huntington, WV with his wife, son and daughter. Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Energy System Training 04:30 Understanding Limited Resources in Training 10:17 Muscle Contractions and Their Importance 17:03 Energy Systems Overview 24:33 Components of Energy System Training 29:56 Practical Applications of Training 33:54 Understanding Climbing Intensity and Training 39:36 Exploring Strength Endurance and Pump Training 47:29 Assessing and Programming for Climbing Training 50:48 Needs Analysis in Climbing Training 01:03:34 Key Takeaways for Effective Climbing Training Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 📥 Energy Systems Training Downloadable Resource 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  How to Prevent and Recover from Meniscus Injury - Joshua Foster 01.05.2025 39m

  In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Josh Foster discuss meniscal injuries in rock climbers. They explain what a meniscal injury is and how climbers can injure their meniscus. They discuss the signs and symptoms of a meniscal injury and how it is diagnosed and treated. They also outline a rehabilitation plan for meniscal injuries, including exercises to restore range of motion and strengthen the muscles around the knee. They emphasize the importance of proper movement patterns and provide climbing-specific exercises to prevent meniscal injuries in climbers. Joshua Foster's Bio Josh Foster is a Doctor of Physical Therapy with a passion for movement and health, beginning his journey in 2001 when he discovered climbing. He has been deeply embedded in the climbing community for over 20 years, starting as a youth competitor who reached the national level in high school. He spent 12 years setting routes and more than a decade as a youth competitive climbing coach, where he facilitated success for new athletes and national champions. Chapters 00:00 Introduction 01:23 What is a meniscal injury and how do climbers get them? 06:52 Diagnosis and treatment of meniscal injuries 09:00 Rehabilitation plan for meniscal injuries 22:47 Movement patterns and climbing-specific exercises 30:35 Preventing meniscal injuries in climbers Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  Ankle Sprain Rehab for Rock Climbers - Nicholas Hedges 01.03.2025 50m

  In this conversation, Dr. Nick Hedges discusses the importance of the lower body, specifically the ankle, in climbing. He highlights the prevalence of ankle injuries in climbing and the potential consequences of ankle sprains. Dr. Hedges provides self-assessment techniques to determine ankle susceptibility and reduce the risk of injury. He also explains how to test ankle mobility and function, as well as how to tease out the different systems involved in balance. Dr. Hedges offers tips for training and improving balance and provides insights on benchmarking and comparing balance performance. The conversation concludes with a case study of sprained ankles in a climbing gym. This conversation explores the assessment, treatment, and rehabilitation of ankle sprains in rock climbers. The importance of addressing ankle stability and mobility is emphasized, along with the need to determine the severity of an ankle injury. The stages of ankle rehabilitation are discussed, including the unload stage, partial loading stage, initial loading stage, dynamic and plyometric stage, and fear avoidance. The conversation concludes with a reminder to seek professional help if needed and to prioritize ankle health to prevent chronic instability and future injuries. Nicholas Hedges's Bio Nic Hedges has a Doctorate in Chiropractic as well as a Masters degree in Sport Science and Rehabilitation. Since graduating chiropractic school, Nic has taught anatomy and physiology at Colorado Mountain College. He was also a member of the climbing special interest group, which provided him the opportunity to collaborate with other professionals in a niche sport. He is now the proud owner and operator of Synergy Sports Clinic in Grand Junction, Colorado. When he's not working in clinic, he can be found climbing in rifle or trail running. Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Background 01:30 The Importance of the Lower Body in Climbing 06:19 The Consequences of Ankle Sprains 08:02 Self-Assessment for Ankle Susceptibility and Injury Risk Reduction 11:33 Testing Ankle Mobility and Function 14:26 Teasing Out the Different Systems Involved in Balance 21:09 Benchmarking and Comparing Balance Performance 22:39 Case Study: Sprained Ankles in a Climbing Gym 22:46 Importance of Assessing and Addressing the Ankle 27:05 Determining the Severity of an Ankle Injury 35:30 Stages of Ankle Rehabilitation 44:05 Closing Thoughts on Ankle Sprains and Rock Climbing Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  TFCC injury: A Common Wrist Pain in Climbers - Kimmy Wiley 01.01.2025 35m

  In this conversation, physical therapist Kimmy Wiley and Jared Vagy discuss TFCC wrist injuries in rock climbers. They cover the definition and location of the TFCC, common symptoms, and tests to diagnose the injury. They also discuss the importance of deloading and modifying climbing movements to avoid aggravating the injury. Kimmy shares her approach to rehab, which includes gradually building mobility and strength in a progressive manner. They emphasize the need for individualized exercises and the importance of pain management during the rehab process. Kimmy Wiley's Bio Kimmy Wiley is a doctor of physical therapy and owner of Peak Pursuit Performance & Rehab- an online physical therapy and strength and conditioning service for outdoor athletes. While Kimmy has had experience in most physical therapy settings, she has found a passion for sports therapy- specifically for adventure sport athletics. During the winter months Kimmy travels with the U.S. Snowboard Halfpipe Team, helping them stay happy and healthy as they travel the world for training camps and competitions. When at home in Salt Lake, Kimmy can be found in the Wasatch Mountains climbing, snowboarding, or hiking with her dog, Nomad. Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Background 08:41 Rehabilitation Approach 25:16 Returning to Climbing and Specific Movements 32:32 Conclusion and Contact Information Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  Training With Your Cycle – Katrina Wong 01.11.2024 29m

  This conversation explores the impact of the menstrual cycle on training and climbing performance. The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, each characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, when estrogen levels are higher, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. In contrast, the luteal phase, with higher progesterone levels, may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-intensity exercises. Understanding these phases can help climbers tailor their training programs and be more forgiving of their performance fluctuations. Coaches and partners can also consider these factors when working with female climbers. Takeaways The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. The luteal phase may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-intensity exercises. Understanding the menstrual cycle can help climbers tailor their training programs and be more forgiving of performance fluctuations.   Katrina Wong's Bio Currently, Katrina is a resident in orthopedics at Kaiser, where she is dedicated to expanding her knowledge and honing her skills. Katrina is slowly building her foundation and working to make positive contributions to both the climbing and physical therapy communities.  Chapters 00:00 Introduction 02:12 Understanding the Menstrual Cycle 04:16 Awareness of Menstrual Cycle Phases 06:07 Hormones and their Roles 08:46 Training in the Follicular Phase 12:09 Effects of the Menstrual Cycle 19:17 Positive Aspects of the Luteal Phase 23:17 Training Recommendations for Different Phases 25:47 Considerations for Coaches and Partners  26:33 Personal Variability in Cycle Phases 28:35 Final Thoughts  Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  Climb On after a Concussion – Stacey Castaldo 01.09.2024 36m

  In this conversation, Stacey Castaldo shares her personal experience with concussion and discusses the signs, symptoms, and rehabilitation of concussions in rock climbing. She emphasizes the importance of seeking medical attention and getting screened after a head injury. Stacey also highlights the structured return to climbing protocol and the role of physical therapy exercises in concussion recovery. The key takeaways include wearing a helmet, resting for no more than 48 hours, and seeking professional guidance for rehabilitation. Takeaways Wear a helmet while climbing to reduce the risk of head injuries. Seek medical attention and get screened after a head injury to rule out serious complications. Rest for no more than 48 hours after a concussion, as prolonged rest may slow down recovery. Follow a structured return to climbing protocol, gradually increasing intensity and monitoring symptoms. Engage in aerobic exercise as part of concussion recovery, as it has been shown to be beneficial. Consult with a physical therapist for guidance and exercises to aid in concussion rehabilitation. Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Background 01:14 Stacey's Personal Experience with Concussion 03:00 Signs and Symptoms of Concussion 08:00 Seeking Medical Attention and Diagnosis 11:00 Rehabilitation and Return to Climbing 24:00 Structured Return to Climbing Protocol 32:00 Physical Therapy Exercises for Concussion Recovery 38:00 Key Takeaways and Recommendations Stacey's Bio Stacey received her doctorate in physical therapy from California State University in Long Beach. Originally from Palos Verdes, she is a Southern California native and a lifetime athlete. A former competitive gymnast, varsity long distance runner, and avid snowboarder; she found rock climbing 4 years ago and has fallen in love with the sport. She was a member of the Climbing Special Interest Group while in PT school, where she gained valuable experience in learning to treat climbing specific injuries and wrote an article on returning to climbing after concussion after sustaining a concussion herself and struggling to get back on the wall. She currently works in the Orthopedic and Sports setting and has also worked as a Strength and Conditioning coach, and uses her fitness background to help athletes of all ages and levels stay active and doing what they love.  Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  Tendons: Do I Load it or Rest it - Evan Ingerson 01.07.2024 35m

  In this episode, we invite Evan Ingerson back o the show to discuss the topic of tendons and tendon injuries, with a focus on climbers. He explains the structure and function of tendons, the different types of tendon injuries, and the causes and symptoms of these injuries. He also discusses the differences between tendonitis, tendinosis, and tendinopathy, and provides guidelines for their treatment and rehabilitation. He emphasizes the importance of rest and proper loading techniques in the healing process and provides insights into the expected healing time for tendon injuries. Overall, this conversation provides valuable information and advice for climbers dealing with tendon injuries. Takeaways Tendons are the connective tissue that connects muscles to bone and play a crucial role in movement. Tendon injuries are common in climbers, with the most common areas being the elbow, rotator cuff, biceps, and hamstring. Tendonitis, tendinosis, and tendinopathy are different types of tendon injuries, each requiring a different approach to treatment and rehabilitation. Rest and proper loading techniques are essential for the healing of tendon injuries, and the progression of rehabilitation should be guided by the individual's symptoms and response to treatment. Evan Ingerson's Bio Evan was born and raised in Portland, Oregon. After receiving his Bachelor's Degree in Exercise Science from Oregon State University he moved to Denver to attend Regis University and explore the Rocky Mountains. Evan graduated with honors with his doctorate in physical therapy from Regis in 2016 and has been doing everything he can to continue to grow his clinical effectiveness ever since. When he's not in the clinic Evan enjoys everything Colorado has to offer such as rock climbing, mountain biking, skiing, and ballroom dancing. Evan is happily taking new clients via telehealth only. Schedule online or contact him directly at [email protected] for inquiries. Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  Climbing as Therapy for Mental Health – Beth Scott 02.05.2024 34m

  In this conversation, Beth Scott, an occupational therapist and passionate climber, discusses mental health in climbing and provides practical techniques for improving mental well-being. The conversation covers topics such as understanding mental health for climbers, the importance of grounding exercises, breathing techniques, and building community for mental health support. Beth emphasizes the need to address mental health in a holistic manner and provides tangible strategies that climbers can incorporate into their climbing practice. Overall, the conversation highlights the significance of mental health in climbing and offers valuable insights for climbers of all levels. In this conversation, Beth Scott, OTR/L, shares valuable insights and strategies for climbers to prevent injuries, improve technique, and enhance performance. The conversation covers the benefits of climbing, common injuries, warm-up and stretching exercises, mental preparation, building strength and endurance, and the importance of recovery and rest. Beth emphasizes the importance of proper technique, body awareness, and listening to your body's signals. She provides practical exercises and tips that can be applied both in climbing and in everyday life. Overall, this conversation provides a comprehensive guide to climbing injury prevention and performance optimization. Takeaways Mental health is a broad category that encompasses various aspects of well-being, including anxiety, depression, and neurodivergence. Grounding exercises, such as the five senses exercise, can help climbers stay present and manage stress and anxiety. Deliberate breathing while climbing can improve focus, oxygenation, and mental clarity. Building a supportive community and engaging in social activities can contribute to better mental health in climbing.  Addressing mental health in a holistic manner is essential for climbers to optimize their overall well-being and performance. Beth Scott's Bio My name is Beth Scott, and I'm an occupational therapist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. I started climbing around 10 years ago when I began undergrad studies. I was uncoordinated and far from athletic, but realized I needed a way to meet people and simultaneously deal with stress. Each year after I became more interested (obsessed?) in climbing, and eventually began cross training, competing, giving lessons, coaching, and route setting at local climbing gyms until starting graduate school. The more I climbed inside and out, the more I saw large gaps in access to both indoor and outdoor climbing to Oklahomans of every ability level. An occupation like climbing can offer so much more than just physical health, and I want to help bridge those gaps. Chapters 00:00 Introduction 01:26 Understanding Mental Health for Climbers 03:30 Mental Health is Not Always Negative 05:18 Practical Tips for Improving Mental Health 06:00 Grounding Exercise: Five Senses 09:56 Breathing Techniques for Mental Health 23:26 Building Community for Mental Health  33:17 Final Thoughts Beth Scott's Bio My name is Beth Scott, and I'm an occupational therapist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. I started climbing around 10 years ago when I began undergrad studies. I was uncoordinated and far from athletic, but realized I needed a way to meet people and simultaneously deal with stress. Each year after I became more interested (obsessed?) in climbing, and eventually began cross training, competing, giving lessons, coaching, and route setting at local climbing gyms until starting graduate school. The more I climbed inside and out, the more I saw large gaps in access to both indoor and outdoor climbing to Oklahomans of every ability level. An occupation like climbing can offer so much more than just physical health, and I want to help bridge those gaps. CONTACT BETH SCOTT: [email protected] Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  DIP Joint Finger Injuries - Steve Smith 01.03.2024 52m

  In this conversation, Steve Smith, a doctor of physical therapy, discusses DIP joint pain in climbers. He explains the anatomy of the finger and the specific joints involved in DIP joint pain. Steve highlights the causes and symptoms of this type of injury, emphasizing the importance of understanding the mechanics of climbing and the impact on the joints. He also provides insights into the rehabilitation process, including rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises. Steve discusses the role of other factors such as wrist position and technique in contributing to DIP joint pain. He concludes by recommending exercises to strengthen finger and wrist extensors, as well as pinch grip variations. In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve discuss hangboard recommendations, returning to climbing after an injury, and final thoughts on the diagnosis of DIP synovitis capsulitis.   Takeaways DIP joint pain is a common injury in climbers, often caused by overuse and excessive stress on the joint. Understanding the anatomy of the finger and the mechanics of climbing can help prevent and manage DIP joint pain. Rehabilitation for DIP joint pain involves rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises. Strengthening finger and wrist extensors, as well as varying grip positions, can help prevent and alleviate DIP joint pain. When it comes to hangboarding or climbing with an injury, it's important to find an entry point and modify the routine to avoid exacerbating the injury. Returning to climbing after an injury can be done by modifying the intensity and volume of climbing, focusing on slab climbing or easier holds, and monitoring symptoms. Managing DIP synovitis capsulitis requires finding the right dosage of training that allows progression without flaring up the injury. Seeking the guidance of a physical therapist or coach can help with individualizing the fingerboard program and ensuring proper rehabilitation. Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Background 03:10 Understanding DIP Joint Anatomy and Injury 05:34 Increase in Joint-Related Injuries in Climbers 07:35 Causes and Symptoms of DIP Joint Pain 16:19 Rehabilitation Process for DIP Joint Pain 25:05 Importance of Varying Grip Positions 28:40 Other Factors Contributing to DIP Joint Pain 33:00 Exercises for Strengthening Finger and Wrist Extensors 38:03 Pinch Grip Variations 42:08 Hangboard Recommendations 46:11 Returning to Climbing 48:30 Final Thoughts on DIP Synovitis Capsulitis Diagnosis Contact Steve Smith: [email protected] Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 YouTube Session Recording Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  The Ultimate Guide for Returning Back to Rock Climbing - Evan Ingerson 01.01.2024 35m

  In this episode, Evan Ingerson, a physical therapist, discusses the challenges of returning to climbing after an injury or break. He emphasizes the importance of measuring and systematizing the return to climbing process, using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume. Evan also highlights the need to consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression. He introduces the concept of shoulder spheres for shoulder injuries and provides tips on using the gym as a tool and climbing with good influences. Overall, he encourages climbers to focus on drills, technique, and making the most of the return to climbing experience. Takeaways Measure and systematize the return to climbing process using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume. Consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression. Use the gym as a tool to modify climbs and focus on drills and technique. Climb with good influences and avoid pushing too hard too soon. Evan Ingerson's Bio Evan was born and raised in Portland, Oregon. After receiving his Bachelor's Degree in Exercise Science from Oregon State University he moved to Denver to attend Regis University and explore the Rocky Mountains. Evan graduated with honors with his doctorate in physical therapy from Regis in 2016 and has been doing everything he can to continue to grow his clinical effectiveness ever since. When he's not in the clinic Evan enjoys everything Colorado has to offer such as rock climbing, mountain biking, skiing, and ballroom dancing. Evan is happily taking new clients via telehealth only. Schedule online or contact him directly at [email protected] for inquiries. Please note: Evan is no longer taking Free Consultations Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 YouTube Session Recording Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  Climbing Injury and Training Trends - Patrick Matros 05.12.2023 49m

  Listen In this interview The Climbing Doctor talks with world class trainer and climber, Patrick Matros. Patrick holds a master's degree in sport and educational sciences, is the author of two climbing books, including the worldwide bestseller GimmeKraft!, and has trained some of the top climbers in the world, such as Alex Megos and Margo Hayes. This episode covers: Climbing/training trends Analyzing a climber and creating/implementing a performance plan Coaching philosophy and working with Alex Megos  Managing injuries and callaborating with other health professionals Patrick's general tips for climbing resiliency  Patrick's info and outro Contact Info: IG: @kraftfactory email: [email protected]
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  The Mental Game of Climbing Injuries - Arno Ilgner 04.11.2023 43m

  Listen Arno Ilgner is a distinguished rock climber and first ascensionist, perhaps most well known as the author of The Rock Warrior's Way. Through his best selling work, Arno outlines his methodologies emphasizing mental training to help his students and readers improve their awareness, focus attention, and understand their athletic (and life) challenges within a coherent, learning-based philosophy of intelligent risk-taking. In this interview with The Climbing Doctor, Arno discusses his history, mental aspects of climbing, and injury management. This episode covers: A history of The Rock Warrior's Way -- how it started and developed to what it is today Mental aspects of injury management with climbing Body awareness and mental flexibility  Arno's personal routine for sharpening his mind Coping with stressors in rehab and leveraging senses to live in the moment Arno's general advice and closing thoughts Contact Info: https://warriorsway.com/ IG: @rockwarriorsway
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  Preparation is Everything - Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou 05.10.2023 27m

  Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor Interviews 4-time Climbing World Cup Champion Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, delving into her personal routines, coaching philosophies, favorite climbing drills, and how she has managed to maintain her health through a lifetime of tough climbing. This episode covers: Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou intro  Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's thoughts on family and what motivates/inspires her Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's warm up routine Team management/warm up in team setting  Supplemental exercise routine - progressions, addressing weak links, maintenance Common areas of weakness, injury prevention, and how RR addresses them What distinguishes elite level climbers Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's favorite drills  RR's advice on injury management  Outro Robyn's Bio: Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou is a 4-time Climbing World Cup champion, 5 time U.S.A champion, and the third female climber to send 5.14a. She has been coaching since 1993 and has served as the head coach for the USA Climbing Youth Team. Additionally, Robyn is the founder of ABC Kids Climbing, an institution that has included the likes of Brooke Raboutou, Colin Duffy, Margo Hayes, and Natalia Grossman. Contact Info: https://www.abckidsboulder.com/ IG: @robyn_erbesfield_raboutou